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Bronco II 2.3 turbo racer


14TR

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Hi all,

I made reference to it in my introduction thread but I’ll give some more details as I’m open to suggestions from all of you.

I’m starting off with a stock 87 B2 that is currently equipped with the 2.9 and FM145 (or possibly the 146, not certain from memory). The racing we do is EC4WDA racing which most events is obstacle, drags, and figure 8 or hill climb, depending on the track. If not familiar, picture the obstacle similar to tuff truck style racing but less brutal, as in not designed to beat the heck out of and break the vehicle. Usually a collection of twists and turns, straightaways for speed, perhaps a smallish few jumps.


anyway, the bronco was set up to race about 15 years ago which basically just consisted of the glass being removed, most of the interior, a cage welded in, etc. I believe the suspension is still all stock. The bronco has sat at least 12 or more years since it last raced. About that long ago I bought a rusted frame but mechanically sound 1988 turbocoupe. I pulled the engine and trans at the time and junked the rest. I intended on completing the swap years ago but changed careers and got married and had kids, plus have had a lot of other car projects in the years since. I’ve finally decided to get around to building the racer with the 2.3 swapped in.

Somewhere along the way, the rule book changed for points classes and the current version will put this setup likely in a class with moderately worked 6 cylinder Jeeps and other vehicles and possibly stock small displacement V8’s. I’m not too worried about tweaking the 2.3 to make more power than most in the class as getting 300-350hp should be easy. The rules give no restriction on turbo size, boost, etc. when you get into head work or larger cams you pay a points penalty but I don’t think we will need to go that far to be competitive.

I do however worry about suspension and stability. In the lower slower classes that it competed in with the 2.9, you weren’t exactly flying around the course. You more were just “driving” the track.



I plan on first and foremost completing the 2.3 swap, which will also mean installing the Megasquirt I intend to run. The tank will be drained if not just completely replaced. I imagine the fuel and pickup etc is junk at this point. I’ll run a 255 pump, and the new lines. Rip out the remaining interior which is just the stock front seats (which have vegetation growing on them, no joke), the stock dash (will replace with an aluminum plain dash, with some provisions for the necessary switches and likely a cheap tablet for the gauges bluetoothed to the megasquirt). Once it’s up and running I have some property available to test it out. I will probably take it to a race or two and see how it does, but I’m fairly certain I’ll need some suspension mods to improve the stability, travel, and ability to land jumps (relatively small, we’re not talking anything crazy) without destroying it or severing my spine. What’s a relatively cheap upgrade here? I’m thinking axle swaps to get wider track and different springs/shocks? I know the sky is the limit if I wanted it to land like a stadium truck, but I don’t plan on ever having more than a few grand in this thing. And by the way, Merry Christmas!
 


alwaysFlOoReD

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If you're doing a lot of cornering I would go with a SLA front suspension. Or a straight axle. The TTB has a habit of scissoring up if you do S-turns and then roll easier. Look at my avatar...
I put in the thickest front bar I could find and a rear bar out of an f-150 to try to prevent the front from jacking.
PS: I built mine as cheap as possible and still have over 10 grand in it. And its basically stock!
 

14TR

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See this is the info I need! I have built a lot of vehicles in my time and am good with engines, electrical, etc. but to be honest I don’t know much about off road suspension. I was always under the impression TTB was good for long travel and jumps etc. I assumed it handled turns well too.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Ttb is good for long travel and jumps. Not so much for curvy road racing. It really depends on how tight your tracks are. And as long as you are aware of your tipping points its doable.
 

bobbywalter

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My credo
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does it have to be stock style suspension? overall track width?

a ttb 44 would be on the menu for me..as it can still be run in the stock envelope...

but i part from these guys for this application as the d35 works pretty good. you have to really play with steering linkage and spring rates/hd shocks if they wont let you use coilovers...but you can get good handling out of them.

aftermarket sways which will be high dollar will go along way compared to oem offerings ..... the heavy duty expy stuff is cheap though.
 

14TR

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Basically no restrictions on suspension or style. It’s usually the guys with the coin have these giant coilovers with remote fox reservoirs, 4 link rears, etc. Not to say that always wins, but certainly it’s an advantage. I’m going to see if I link a video from one of the actual events from October so you can see a typical track setup. I’d like to do something at this point that can be done for a fairly affordable price, just so it’s not notoriously tippy, and doesn’t land like a brick off a small jump. A little more track width and different spring rates I would imagine would help. A lot of guys are running longer wheelbase jeeps or scout frames, nothing fancy, but certainly better lateral stability when comparing stock to stock vs the bronco 2
 

14TR

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Hopefully I can link this video. It’s titled as Tuff Truck but it’s not. It’s the EC4WDA we race. In fact I was there, but just spectating for that one
 

bobbywalter

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old school ultra 4 looking critters
 

RANGERICK

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235/75/15
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Be patient and use a torque wrench when called for.
Hi all,

I made reference to it in my introduction thread but I’ll give some more details as I’m open to suggestions from all of you.

I’m starting off with a stock 87 B2 that is currently equipped with the 2.9 and FM145 (or possibly the 146, not certain from memory). The racing we do is EC4WDA racing which most events is obstacle, drags, and figure 8 or hill climb, depending on the track. If not familiar, picture the obstacle similar to tuff truck style racing but less brutal, as in not designed to beat the heck out of and break the vehicle. Usually a collection of twists and turns, straightaways for speed, perhaps a smallish few jumps.


anyway, the bronco was set up to race about 15 years ago which basically just consisted of the glass being removed, most of the interior, a cage welded in, etc. I believe the suspension is still all stock. The bronco has sat at least 12 or more years since it last raced. About that long ago I bought a rusted frame but mechanically sound 1988 turbocoupe. I pulled the engine and trans at the time and junked the rest. I intended on completing the swap years ago but changed careers and got married and had kids, plus have had a lot of other car projects in the years since. I’ve finally decided to get around to building the racer with the 2.3 swapped in.

Somewhere along the way, the rule book changed for points classes and the current version will put this setup likely in a class with moderately worked 6 cylinder Jeeps and other vehicles and possibly stock small displacement V8’s. I’m not too worried about tweaking the 2.3 to make more power than most in the class as getting 300-350hp should be easy. The rules give no restriction on turbo size, boost, etc. when you get into head work or larger cams you pay a points penalty but I don’t think we will need to go that far to be competitive.

I do however worry about suspension and stability. In the lower slower classes that it competed in with the 2.9, you weren’t exactly flying around the course. You more were just “driving” the track.



I plan on first and foremost completing the 2.3 swap, which will also mean installing the Megasquirt I intend to run. The tank will be drained if not just completely replaced. I imagine the fuel and pickup etc is junk at this point. I’ll run a 255 pump, and the new lines. Rip out the remaining interior which is just the stock front seats (which have vegetation growing on them, no joke), the stock dash (will replace with an aluminum plain dash, with some provisions for the necessary switches and likely a cheap tablet for the gauges bluetoothed to the megasquirt). Once it’s up and running I have some property available to test it out. I will probably take it to a race or two and see how it does, but I’m fairly certain I’ll need some suspension mods to improve the stability, travel, and ability to land jumps (relatively small, we’re not talking anything crazy) without destroying it or severing my spine. What’s a relatively cheap upgrade here? I’m thinking axle swaps to get wider track and different springs/shocks? I know the sky is the limit if I wanted it to land like a stadium truck, but I don’t plan on ever having more than a few grand in this thing. And by the way, Merry Christmas!
I have an 87 B2 XLT and I'm looking at doing the 2.3 Turbo swap. The motor is from a mid 80's Mustang. Is this a bolt in operation or do I need adaptor plates, etc? It has a manual stock tranny in it. FM 145/6
 

Shran

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I have an 87 B2 XLT and I'm looking at doing the 2.3 Turbo swap. The motor is from a mid 80's Mustang. Is this a bolt in operation or do I need adaptor plates, etc? It has a manual stock tranny in it. FM 145/6
You will need Ranger engine mounts and the engine mount brackets that attach to the frame, and maybe the engine mount brackets that attach to the block. They may be different on 2wd and 4wd donor trucks. Otherwise you can get a 4 cylinder bellhousing for the transmission you have and use Ranger 4 cylinder clutch parts/starter. You will also need a 4 cylinder Ranger radiator. Pretty easy swap in the grand scheme of things.
 

14TR

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What Shran said. I was fortunate my bronco had the fm146. I was able to score a 2.3 bellhousing from a member on here for a very good price
 

RANGERICK

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1987 & 1989 B2
Make / Model
Ford Bronco II
Engine Type
2.9 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
stock
Tire Size
235/75/15
My credo
Be patient and use a torque wrench when called for.
You will need Ranger engine mounts and the engine mount brackets that attach to the frame, and maybe the engine mount brackets that attach to the block. They may be different on 2wd and 4wd donor trucks. Otherwise you can get a 4 cylinder bellhousing for the transmission you have and use Ranger 4 cylinder clutch parts/starter. You will also need a 4 cylinder Ranger radiator. Pretty easy swap in the grand scheme of things.
So what you're saying is the 2.3L block which is coming from an 80's SVO Mustang is the same block as the 2.3L in Rangers?
 

bobbywalter

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1988
Make / Model
FORD mostly
Engine Type
V8
Engine Size
BIGGER
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
sawzall?
Tire Size
33-44
My credo
it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
So what you're saying is the 2.3L block which is coming from an 80's SVO Mustang is the same block as the 2.3L in Rangers?
Year for year.
 

Shran

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So what you're saying is the 2.3L block which is coming from an 80's SVO Mustang is the same block as the 2.3L in Rangers?
What bobby said. The mounts and bellhousing pattern will be the same. Those two things are the hardest to overcome IF they were different - everything else is pretty easy.
 

snoranger

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After watching that video…

Go buy a Yamaha YXZ1000R and put the BroncoII body on it.
 

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