Bronco II 2.3 turbo racer

[bobbywalter]

Well...the turbo drain may have to be drilled and tapped. I have seen blocks with plugs though... Same for coolant though most don't do that

 

[RANGERICK]

What bobby said. The mounts and bellhousing pattern will be the same. Those two things are the hardest to overcome IF they were different - everything else is pretty easy.

Awesome news. So the only thing I have to deal with is wiring. I believe the motor I'm looking at is carbureted, not FI. I only hope I don't have problems with California emissions BS. The motor is coming out of a California car so I shouldn't, but ya never know.

 

[Shran]

Ooooooooh... I'd check with your emissions people. There were a couple other threads here recently where people were getting denied on engine swaps because they came out of a different class of vehicle. Something to the effect of, an Explorer is in a different class or weight rating or something than a Ranger is so they weren't allowing a V8 swap. They may have a hissy fit about what you want to do, or it may be fine.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Even then they go after year of engine as well as in the engine would have to be newer than the vehicle, the carbureted turbo 2.3L's were just in like '81-3 I think

 

[14TR]

Well guys I've been slowly looking into getting this swap started on the racer. I went a month or two ago to my buddy's house where the bronco is sitting to look things over and yeesh... I don't remember it being so beat. Don't get me wrong, these racers don't need to be pretty as they get beat up, dented, and rolled, but the floor is almost gone in the back (not needed really) both fenders aren't just dented but folded in and destroyed, hood caved in, passenger side of the roof has a massive dent, quarters so rusted over the wheel wells it has some really hokey patches riveted on.
In light of this i've been looking at picking up a ranger to use instead. I didn't want anything nice as I'd hate to tear apart a good running truck that could be used on the street, and this is a relatively cheap sport, so I wasn't going to budget much for it. I've come across a couple late 90's - early 00's rangers that appear to be ideal. Ideal in that they aren't rusted frames, they already have blown or damaged engines, don't have a title, etc. So good bones, but not nice enough to feel bad about cutting up and gutting. My understanding is these newer rangers have a boxed frame too and SLA suspension which may be better suited to this style of racing. Plus there is of course the longer wheelbase and track width when compared to the bronco 2 that I think would be hugely beneficial for stability. I've found a few in the $500-$1000 range which I'm perfectly happy with. The question is, how does this effect my planned 2.3 turbo swap? My first thought was still use my 2.3, the FM145 out of the bronco, the megasquirt, etc with the only real difference probably being mounts for the trans requiring fabrication (this type of stuff isn't an issue as I have a fairly well equipped shop). But then I got thinking the Mazda M5OD might be an option, but I know the M5OD for the 2.3 is somewhat rare and I THINK not a 4wd trans ever, so if its gut swapping trans and all that, maybe better off with the FM145 and fab up the needed crossmember. Any other trans options while we are at it? I know the FM is not a very strong trans. I don't know how far off the auto behind the 3.0 that is in one of the trucks I'm looking at would be to the 2.3 if it would warrant making an adapter plate.

As far as cost otherwise, its removing the glass, the interior, and welding in a proper roll cage, so I'm ok with that. Any input is appreciated!

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I would agree with using the SLA. I wish I had known about that back when I built my low buck race truck. Get it up and running so you can race. Worry about stronger trans later.
There are 2.3 4x4 m5od trans, but rare.

 

[14TR]

I would agree with using the SLA. I wish I had known about that back when I built my low buck race truck. Get it up and running so you can race. Worry about stronger trans later.
There are 2.3 4x4 m5od trans, but rare.

Thanks for the input. I am leaning toward using the FM145 as well. My logic being its not a drag vehicle launching on pavement, so hopefully the "looseness" of the dirt and mud helps keep it alive for the time being. The more I research the more I'm thinking the SLA has more pros than cons too. The TTB is probably a better platform for the humps and jumps, but with the turns and figure 8's etc I think the SLA is the way to go.

 

[scotts90ranger]

If you're fairly handy and have a 4x2 Lima M5OD and a 4x4 other M5OD swapping the output shaft isn't too bad, hardest part is pulling the rearmost gear as it requires a really deep puller...

Might have to get more inventive on engine mounts than anything since the Lima wasn't ever used on an SLA 4x4, last year for a Lima 4x4 was '97.

I think '98-99 had pulse vacuum hubs instead of the live front axle after that, might be worth taking into consideration, can be converted...

 

[14TR]

If you're fairly handy and have a 4x2 Lima M5OD and a 4x4 other M5OD swapping the output shaft isn't too bad, hardest part is pulling the rearmost gear as it requires a really deep puller...

Might have to get more inventive on engine mounts than anything since the Lima wasn't ever used on an SLA 4x4, last year for a Lima 4x4 was '97.

I think '98-99 had pulse vacuum hubs instead of the live front axle after that, might be worth taking into consideration, can be converted...

I'll keep it in mind about the M5OD, I know it's supposed certainly be better than the FM transmissions. I actually can see the Vacuum hubs being useful potentially, by using a momentary push button on the shifter to control a vacuum solenoid for 180* turns etc. Once you get the ass end around, you can release the button and reengage as you pull out of the turn. Not sure how it will work in reality, but in theory its something that has crossed my mind.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I'll keep it in mind about the M5OD, I know it's supposed certainly be better than the FM transmissions. I actually can see the Vacuum hubs being useful potentially, by using a momentary push button on the shifter to control a vacuum solenoid for 180* turns etc. Once you get the ass end around, you can release the button and reengage as you pull out of the turn. Not sure how it will work in reality, but in theory its something that has crossed my mind.

I've had similar thoughts about disconnecting the front axle drive using steering input for disengagement. The less you have to do in the heat of racing the more likely you won't forget to reengage.

 

[14TR]

a lot of the guys who race this type of event, especially the higher class quicker machines, use hand brakes for those hairpin type turns. My guess is this wouldn't be as effective, but would largely have the same effect and be cheap as hell and easy to do. Pressing the button would be disengaging the hubs, releasing it as you come around would automatically re engage the hubs. Would have to account of course for the delay in vacuum engagement.

 

[14TR]

Well picked up the ranger today! 99 supercab, 3.0 auto. With any luck maybe I can get the very beginning of the project going as soon as next week. Now that I ended going Ranger maybe this thread needs to be moved too

here’s a pic or two. Not pretty, but good for a racer, and the frame is good and solid with just a bit of surface rust!