RangerXLT!
New Member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2014
- Messages
- 4
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
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- Vehicle Year
- 86 STX, 99 XLT
- Transmission
- Manual
Hey guys, not new to the forum, i was having issues with resetting my old login password, however here we go, please help! (If you don't want to read all the details below, just please tell me how to immediately FORCE the cel on!)
I just bought a 99 Ranger XLT, 4.0 v6, 81k, It's in great shape, everything seems to work, runs good, idles good, seems to be in great condition so I pulled the trigger, After owning it for a few days I feel like it may be lacking in power, however if I granny drive it I can average 20mpg (over 2 tankfuls) which is pretty good for a 4.0. It almost feels like i'm towing something, and it makes me think of my old 86 4cly STX which had huge power and could smoke the tires like nothing! This newer, bigger motor just doesnt have the pep or power my old ranger did, so I popped open the hood and started troubleshooting. Found a damaged wire, not sure if it's a original ford wire, anyways it was barely connected , burnt, and had rat teeth marks on it. I don't know where it's supposed to go but the previous owner had it connected to ground on the firewall. It's grey, so I looked up some wiring diagrams and found it could possibly be a CPS or IAT sensor wire, using my DMM I found the wire is neither, so I just repaired it and put it back on the firewall because the truck won't start without it. Anyways, so I go back and make sure the truck still starts, and it did but idled funny, then I realized I left the IAT sensor unplugged, and also the MAP was also unplugged (because I was looking at how clean it was), and what is weird is i got NO CEL with those unplugged. It struck me as odd, the CEL does light up when I put the key to the on position, then it goes out when I start the truck, as normal. After further inspection I think I may have a vaccum leak somewhere, and I also know my PCV is totally shot, but I don't get why I'm not getting codes! I'm afraid there is alot wrong with the truck and the computer is broken, not throwing codes, or I could just be paranoid... I even unplugged the MAP and IAT and drove around for maybe 10 minutes, no codes. Should I immediately get a code for driving with no MAP? Is there something I can do that should immediately set off a code without any type of driving cycle?
- If i find that it's not throwing codes as it should, whats the next logical step? I also already tried a very basic OBDII scanner, linked fine, zero codes thrown. All wiring and harnesses look in excellent condition (minus the mystery grey wire that will not let truck start if not grounded)
-Side question if one is so inclined to answer, what is typical vaccum I should get while running? Where should I test for holding vaccum? I threw my vac gauge on the line coming out of intake manifold and at idle it was about 16". As soon as I turned off the motor the vac was totally gone, should it hold a vaccum here, or do I need to test off a vaccum resivor that I don't see? It looks like there is one in the lower left but the vac diagram says it's a charcoal cannister, it's round plastic type deal with 2 vac lines connected to it.
PLEASE HELP! If I can prove this truck is a lemon with major issues I may be able to be refunded if that's the case. I could also be being my paranoid self... Thanks!
I just bought a 99 Ranger XLT, 4.0 v6, 81k, It's in great shape, everything seems to work, runs good, idles good, seems to be in great condition so I pulled the trigger, After owning it for a few days I feel like it may be lacking in power, however if I granny drive it I can average 20mpg (over 2 tankfuls) which is pretty good for a 4.0. It almost feels like i'm towing something, and it makes me think of my old 86 4cly STX which had huge power and could smoke the tires like nothing! This newer, bigger motor just doesnt have the pep or power my old ranger did, so I popped open the hood and started troubleshooting. Found a damaged wire, not sure if it's a original ford wire, anyways it was barely connected , burnt, and had rat teeth marks on it. I don't know where it's supposed to go but the previous owner had it connected to ground on the firewall. It's grey, so I looked up some wiring diagrams and found it could possibly be a CPS or IAT sensor wire, using my DMM I found the wire is neither, so I just repaired it and put it back on the firewall because the truck won't start without it. Anyways, so I go back and make sure the truck still starts, and it did but idled funny, then I realized I left the IAT sensor unplugged, and also the MAP was also unplugged (because I was looking at how clean it was), and what is weird is i got NO CEL with those unplugged. It struck me as odd, the CEL does light up when I put the key to the on position, then it goes out when I start the truck, as normal. After further inspection I think I may have a vaccum leak somewhere, and I also know my PCV is totally shot, but I don't get why I'm not getting codes! I'm afraid there is alot wrong with the truck and the computer is broken, not throwing codes, or I could just be paranoid... I even unplugged the MAP and IAT and drove around for maybe 10 minutes, no codes. Should I immediately get a code for driving with no MAP? Is there something I can do that should immediately set off a code without any type of driving cycle?
- If i find that it's not throwing codes as it should, whats the next logical step? I also already tried a very basic OBDII scanner, linked fine, zero codes thrown. All wiring and harnesses look in excellent condition (minus the mystery grey wire that will not let truck start if not grounded)
-Side question if one is so inclined to answer, what is typical vaccum I should get while running? Where should I test for holding vaccum? I threw my vac gauge on the line coming out of intake manifold and at idle it was about 16". As soon as I turned off the motor the vac was totally gone, should it hold a vaccum here, or do I need to test off a vaccum resivor that I don't see? It looks like there is one in the lower left but the vac diagram says it's a charcoal cannister, it's round plastic type deal with 2 vac lines connected to it.
PLEASE HELP! If I can prove this truck is a lemon with major issues I may be able to be refunded if that's the case. I could also be being my paranoid self... Thanks!
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