I did something stupid. I swapped a 1994 2.3 with a 1999 2.5

[RonD]

Yes, that would be correct, Yellow wire with 12v full time from Ignition fuse, 50amp(also powers ignition switch), 12v IN to relay
Yellow/white wire, 12v OUT, to starter motor solenoid "S" terminal, only has 12v with key turned to START

No ground terminal in engine fuse box(or cab fuse box), it's all 12v only, ground wires from relays would be to an inner fender screw/bolt, battery negative terminal should have a smaller wire going to rad support/inner fender to ground those metal parts

 

[Mike4390]

How much would it cost me to have you come to lovely Northern Indiana for a weekend? LOL

 

[HadASplash/XLTSC]

I have an almost perfect 1994 Ranger body, just needs paint, Absolutely no rust, primer under bed even is perfect. Engine blew. Friend gave me a 1999 Mazda excellent running rust bucket. I am not automotive inclined so I thought I could just swap engines.... Wiring is 60 pin to 106 pin. ooops. Engine installed already. Fuel tank replaced with 99 pump assembly and fuel line with no return. I have engine wiring harness from the 1994 and the 1999. I swapped engine and trans. I added a sensor to exhaust as earlier didn't have one. All was good, then I attempted to figure out front body harness. Now I am in no man's land. Some say it can be done others say no. Engine is same I believe so can I use the engine wiring harness from the 1994 and replace the engine harness on the 99? I am not sure I could find a used engine form a 1994 to even rebuild locally. If it can be rewired is anyone willing to take me step by step through the process? Its a lot to ask. My other option is take it to junkyard as I am poor and was trying to be proactive to get this going before my 1999 Expedition with 300000 miles dies... I have traced where each wire goes and labeled on both power distribution boxes but It leaves me lost as how to go forward. I have no auto experience... another stupid move lol

I understand you've done all this work, but why not just cut your losses and swap the entire wiring harness from the Mazda into the Ranger. (Body harness, engine, interior, complete) Swap dashes, etc if necessary and be done. Put everything that ran the Mazda into the Ranger shell and go?

 

[Mike4390]

So I finally got the starter to work with the key. Now I have no spark but engine turns over! So Im feeling a little (very little) success. What would be my next suggested step?

 

[RonD]

See if you have 12v with key on at the coil pack, red wire, and IAC Valve, Red wire

1999 was different than 1994 as far as powering the coil packs
1999 used a Cab fuse, 25amp, with key on power, powered coils and turned on PCM relay
1994 used red/green wire from ignition switch to power coils, key on, no extra fuse, this red/green wire also turned on the PCM relay with key on

So if 1994 cab electrics find the red/green wire in engine bay and test that it has 12v key on, no volt key off, so the right wire and hook it to both coil packs and PCM activation wire

IAC Valve should get key on power from PCM relay when it working

 

[Mike4390]

off of the diode for the coil packs is a violet/white wire that went to the old firewall connector on the 99. this is not available now, is there a place i can connect it instead? It has green/yellow coming in or going out of diode from or to the pcm. I have power to the IAC valve and I found red/green wire with power when key is on. I also have power to the air flow sensor.

 

[RonD]

No violet/white wires I can see on the spark or ignition system

Red/green was used in both years, just different 12v power sources

Diode is for PCM relay 12v activation, not the coils, should be in the 1999 Engine Fuse box
Coils do have a Radio Noise Capacitor

I do have a violet/white wire listed for EVAP vent solenoid, pin 67 on PCM

 

[Mike4390]

I now have power to coil pac but no spark... I have red/Green through computer.

 

[don4331]

Humour me:

Is the Mazda key the same size as your '94 Ranger? Or closer to that of your '99 Expedition?​

​

'99 Rangers wouldn't have PATS (Passive Anti Theft System) on 2.5, but Mazda's are just enough different...​

 

[RonD]

Check that the Crank sensor is plugged in, I assume the harmonic balancer(crank pulley) is installed

Crank sensor generates the spark and fuel injector pulse/timing, it generates its own voltage/pulses

 

[Mike4390]

Humour me:

Is the Mazda key the same size as your '94 Ranger? Or closer to that of your '99 Expedition?​

​

'99 Rangers wouldn't have PATS (Passive Anti Theft System) on 2.5, but Mazda's are just enough different...​

Both keys are ordinary brass keys.

 

[Mike4390]

Check that the Crank sensor is plugged in, I assume the harmonic balancer(crank pulley) is installed

Crank sensor generates the spark and fuel injector pulse/timing, it generates its own voltage/pulses

Crank sensor is plugged in, grey and dark blue disappear into 99 computer into pins grey pin 21 blue pin 22.

 

[RonD]

Have you hooked up CEL(check engine light) yet?
Pin 2 on PCM
Pink/green wire in both years
Runs to dash

Its the ground for the CEL bulb
CEL bulb gets 12v from dash with key on
PCM grounds that pin 2 wire when it boots up, so CEL comes on with key on(if PCM is powered up)

PCM will unground the bulb when it "sees" a good timing signal from crank sensor
So CEL should go off while cranking

 

[4x4prepper]

After reading each message in this thread, I can say my head hurts and I need a coffee

Pictures of this awesome Ranger would be nice. I am sure you will get it going.

 

[Mike4390]

I hooked the pink and light green wire from firewall connector/dash directly to pcm. when I turn on key the pcm clicks and shows ground. No check engine light.... I dont remember ever seeing the check engine light go on. Could the bulb be out? When I test pink/green at computer, no ground key off. Key on I get ground...

Update: Took dash cover off, very dim check engine bulb, goes out when I turn on key.... I have something wrong...