Jballard81's 1994 super cab 4.0 4x4 Restore

[RobbieD]

All that I have is an attached one-holer, so I feel your pain.

Still, I'm happy to have a good roof and a concrete floor for my adventures in the art and mysteries of wrenching.

 

[Josh B]

Awesome JB !

 

[jballard81]

Replaced the driver's side door handle along with the window regulator and motor. The track was really gritty, I ended up having to sand it to get the old grease off.

I had no luck finding replacement door cards at the boneyard so I spent some time cleaning up the absolutely disgusting drivers side. Don't have a before pic handy, but I would say it's an 85% improvement

Even 3D printed a new screw channel to replace the broken off bit

Ordered a fuel filler neck and some cheap 6x8 speakers. I'm really dragging my feet on ordering the A4LD shift kit. Need to sike myself up to take that on I guess

Gotta love old trucks. Every time I tick something off the to-do list I usually add something else to the bottom of the list.

 

[Josh B]

That's some cool stuff man

 

[jballard81]

"final" look for driver's side door. power windows and locks work, replaced the trash paper speakers with some Pyle's from Amazon.

Will continue to keep an eye out for replacement door cards when i'm at the next boneyard, but for now it's back together and functions as intended. After some electrical cleaner even the power windows on both sides work again from the driver's side switch. The switches were in BAD shape. the driver's side window was stuck open about an inch when it was parked for 4 years by the previous owner. They function normally again now. Still need to take apart the switches on the passenger side.

Found replacement mirror glass for the mirror on Ebay, should be here sometime next week(ish). since it's already cracked out, i think i can just pry the rest of the broken bits out, clean it up and then glue in the new piece.

 

[jballard81]

Started doing some research on AC conversion to r134a. My ranger was built in 11/93 and i'm relatively sure its a r12 compressor (I don't see anything about refrigerant on the engine bay stickers. anyway to confirm?). Either way, it appears that the system has been open to the elements for a number of years. I imagine all of the AC stuff will need to be replaced. I'm reading the tech article and researching prices.

more cleaning before and after pics!

looks and more importantly, smells much better.

 

[RobbieD]

The AC spec sticker is usually on evaporator housing. I've seen both R-12 and R-134a in '94 model trucks, although an 11/93 will probably be R-12. And it seems that the '93 going through the '94s the heater core cutoff valve, and more insulation on the evap housing, got added somewhere in the mix.

Yours may have lost an insulation blanket where the sticker originally was; '94 Explorer showing where the AC sticker usually is:

 

[jballard81]

The AC spec sticker is usually on evaporator housing. I've seen both R-12 and R-134a in '94 model trucks, although an 11/93 will probably be R-12. And it seems that the '93 going through the '94s the heater core cutoff valve, and more insulation on the evap housing, got added somewhere in the mix.

Yours may have lost an insulation blanket where the sticker originally was; '94 Explorer showing where the AC sticker usually is:

View attachment 107613

Thanks! I found it and mine is r134a!

I don't know much about ac systems, but this can't be good right?

 

[RobbieD]

Is that the manifold (the block for AC lines) unbolted and loose from the compressor?

 

[jballard81]

Is that the manifold (the block for AC lines) unbolted and loose from the compressor?

From the back of the compressor? I guess so?

 

[RobbieD]

From the back of the compressor, yes, yes it is.

I'll be damned. No, that's not good.

Read up on the AC system; and price some parts. If you're wanting to have AC, you'll probably decide to replace most or all of the components.

Any questions, just post away.

 

[jballard81]

I'll be damned. No, that's not good.

Read up on the AC system; and price some parts. If you're wanting to have AC, you'll probably decide to replace most or all of the components.

Any questions, just post away.

*Deep sigh*
I'm going to assume all the bits need replacing. As I get further into it, I will be asking plenty of questions.

Gotta get through the shift kit on the A4LD and the fuel filler neck first.

But hey, at least I can comfortably stutter through (some) gears with my window down

 

[jballard81]

Replaced the fuel filler neck.

Went about as smoothly as I could have hoped for.
Really helped with the gas smell too.

 

[CamTheHedgehog]

A

Is that the manifold (the block for AC lines) unbolted and loose from the compressor?

As an ASE certified AC tech, yes, yes it is. Like you say, replace all of it. The system sitting open to the elements for 4 years means everything is likely trashed except the physical lines and maybe the evaporator core. But I would replace everything else, because if you don't now, chances are something will kill the compressor again and ruin the whole system.

If you do keep the evaporator core, and also the lines, flush them out very very well with a good quality a/c system cleaner. The last thing you want is bits of dirt and corrosion moving through your nice new a/c compressor.

 

[CamTheHedgehog]

A

As an ASE certified AC tech, yes, yes it is. Like you say, replace all of it. The system sitting open to the elements for 4 years means everything is likely trashed except the physical lines and maybe the evaporator core. But I would replace everything else, because if you don't now, chances are something will kill the compressor again and ruin the whole system.

If you do keep the evaporator core, and also the lines, flush them out very very well with a good quality a/c system cleaner. The last thing you want is bits of dirt and corrosion moving through your nice new a/c compressor.

I would pay money to know why the previous owner disconnected the lines from the compressor and just let it sit.... like what good does that do?