LSD Options

[BenG]

Hello guys I've been working on my truck constantly I've rebuilt the 3.0 and it's been running great I has out with some friends and and the truck got hung up and we all noticed it was a one wheel wonder after looking at the tag on the diff and door it's a 7.5 ring gear 3.73 gears open diff i was looking on line for something for this I found a Yukon Lsd for a mustang with the 7.5 would this work in my truck or would it be better to look for a used OE axle with a Lsd if y'all have any information it would be greatly appreciated

 

[franklin2]

If you get a factory one, they are usually worn out by now and need a rebuild.

Here's a whole page of info on the rearend you have, swap options, and to the lower right of the page, locker write-ups. Just be aware some of this info is older, so some of these companies may have quit selling some of this stuff. You will have to go to their site and check.

The Ford Ranger Axle & Locking Hub Library

www.therangerstation.com

 

[RonD]

It should say "28-spline", if so it will work

I think Yukon made both versions of LSD, clutch pack and Gear driven

Depends on cost, you can used a whole rear LSD axle from a Ranger/Mazda B-series from a 1993 thru 2009, 7.5" or 8.8" as plug and play
Sticking with 3.73 ratio
Yes, I would replace the clutch discs and axle bearings and seals on a used axle

This site: https://www.car-part.com/

Is a good place to search for used parts in your area, use your ZIPCODE

 

[00t444e]

Both of those clutch type limited slips are junk, just put one of these in your open carrier, cheaper, easier to install, and works 10 times better.

Ford 7.5 PowerTrax Lock Right Locker-Broncograveyard.com

The POWERTRAX LOCK-RIGHT Locker is the original locking differential that could be easily installed in existing case assemblies without any special tools or setup equipment. It has been widely used in demanding off-road applications around the world requiring extreme traction output and...

shop.broncograveyard.com

 

[19Walt93]

One of my former techs put a Powertrax in his 2wd Ranger, when he drove around the yard and turned it sounded like it was grinding itself to death. My Ranger has a Yukon "agressive" clutch type LSD that works great and is silent. It'll live a long time because I know how to change the fluid. A Torsen diff would be good, too, my Mustang has an Auburn Pro that I wouldn't recommend.

 

[bobbywalter]

i agree, drop in lockers have the manners of an angry drunken bull in a china shop....


but they work. very crude...very effective.


if you need traction....get a locker. if your on the pavement mostly and have a car...the tru trac and torsen are pretty good.

 

[RonD]

A torsen(gear type) is an open differential that locks if axle RPMs get too far apart
A clutch type is a locked differential that can slip momentarily when going around corners
A Lock Right is a locked differential that can slip/ratchet momentarily when going around a corner

I prefer the clutch type even though the clutch discs need to be changed every 200k miles or so
Much more predicable when driving in any situation

 

[bobbywalter]

A torsen(gear type) is an open differential that locks if axle RPMs get too far apart
A clutch type is a locked differential that can slip momentarily when going around corners
A Lock Right is a locked differential that can slip/ratchet momentarily when going around a corner

I prefer the clutch type even though the clutch discs need to be changed every 200k miles or so
Much more predicable when driving in any situation

i dont agree....i always seen more clutch diffs in the ditch on the other side of overpasses...in the ice and rain... sometimes they slip sometimes they dont.... only predictable thing was bmws camaros and mustangs ditched...

if you dont put modifier in them...20 k tops....

if you use a truck off road 100k will never happen with a wheeler....maybe 40.


i destroyed way too many....literally guts through the cover. but it was cheap and easy to work with at the time.



if you need traction because the surfaces are loose and or you are off camber or in rutted terrain......you need a locker....or a spool.

if you are at the drag strip..or like doing donuts..or drifting around......then the lsd can make sense for alot of people....but braking and turning in slick conditions... the clutch posi i like the least from personal experience. Because it is the LEAST predictable.

and i have had every type on various platforms. but thats just me.

 

[BenG]

Thank all of y'all for all the information it seems like my best option would be the lock right locker for what I want it to do my only concern is do I also need to install one in the d35 upfront of can I get way with just the rear as I haven't had any problems up front yet and don't really want to put to much money in it while I want to swap it for a d30 or d44 depending on what available at the time

 

[ericbphoto]

Thank all of y'all for all the information it seems like my best option would be the lock right locker for what I want it to do my only concern is do I also need to install one in the d35 upfront of can I get way with just the rear as I haven't had any problems up front yet and don't really want to put to much money in it while I want to swap it for a d30 or d44 depending on what available at the time

A lock right in the front can be frustrating at times. It makes it more difficult to turn, especially tight turns. I run Aussie lockers front and rear. I like it. But wish I could afford a selectable locker in the front. Tight turns on trails often require backing up once or twice to get around. I don’t mind. It’s just something to keep in mind. Often, I get into and out of a lot of places with my front hubs unlocked. That way I can use the transfer case in 4-low for speed control. But the Aussie in the rear gives me the traction I need.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Thank all of y'all for all the information it seems like my best option would be the lock right locker for what I want it to do my only concern is do I also need to install one in the d35 upfront of can I get way with just the rear as I haven't had any problems up front yet and don't really want to put to much money in it while I want to swap it for a d30 or d44 depending on what available at the time

You do not need to do the front.

 

[BenG]

It is still my daily so the turning ability is a bit concerning it's my first time messing around with axles so if you think just doing the rear axle is ok I'd like to just do that but if both is recommended I'll do both

 

[ericbphoto]

Just do the rear. You’ll be fine.

 

[BenG]

Alright I I'll put one in the rear I really appreciate everything y'all said and I will come back once I get it and probably need help figuring out how it works and how to install it but untill then thank y'all so much

 

[gw33gp]

I just got back from a 4-week trip on the Wyoming Backcountry Discovery Route and the mountains of Colorado. So, I am a little late on replying.

There is nothing wrong with installing an auto locker in the rear if you learn to deal with the noise and other idiosyncrasies like an occasional jerking in corners. I think a selectable locker is the way to go if you want a locker.

I believe the next best thing is a Torsen or Truetrac. I run Torsen front and rear with very good results. A Torsen is never an open axle or a locker but has near locker properties when accelerating. It is a better LSD and does not wear out like the clutch LSD. The main disadvantage is cost.