Making the cabin hold cold air better

[RedRanger1998]

Hello. I have a 1998 Ford Ranger extended cab 2 door. It has the original seals and whatnot. I was wondering if anyone has ever done anything to their ranger to allow it to hold in the cold air better during the summer. Because right now the cold air leaves the truck seconds after I shut off the AC. And in other cars I can run into a store and come back and it will still be colder than outside. If anyone has done anything that has helped with a problem like mine I would love to hear it. If it doesn't get any better than I accept that too.
Thanks

 

[tvand13]

Some window tint would help a lot. Depending on your local laws/inspections, tint on the windshield, even very light like 70% would probably make a big difference.

 

[RonD]

You could set up a timer relay on the Blower so it stayed on for 3 or 4 minutes after key off

When you shut off AC it is still cooling the Evaporator until the pressure in the system is equal on the high and low side

Leave it on MAX AC and it will still be sucking in the cooler air in the cab

But yes windows and dark interior are not your friends in the Sun belt

There is also the Cat Converters heat coming in thru firewall and under passenger side seat/floor after you stop, 0 air flow under the vehicle

 

[ericbphoto]

Replacing worn door and window seals/weatherstripping might help some. There are probably ways to add insulation between headliner and roof., maybe even on the doors, though you don't want to interfere with window regulators and lock and latch mechanisms. could probably get more insulation under the carpet and up on the firewall.

It will take some research to find out what products are avaliable and creativity to apply thos products. Be carefull on the floor. You don't want something that would absorb and retain moisture.

Personally, I'm just happy if I can keep most of the rain water and creek water OUT of the truck.

 

[Josh B]

I would think you might check the door trim all around also, especially the bottom

 

[Josh B]

Replacing worn door and window seals/weatherstripping might help some. There are probably ways to add insulation between headliner and roof., maybe even on the doors, though you don't want to interfere with window regulators and lock and latch mechanisms. could probably get more insulation under the carpet and up on the firewall.

It will take some research to find out what products are avaliable and creativity to apply thos products. Be carefull on the floor. You don't want something that would absorb and retain moisture.

Personally, I'm just happy if I can keep most of the rain water and creek water OUT of the truck.

I saw somebody was posting that about the time an uncle called. While we talked a while I wanted to delete what I had written but it posted

 

[LD57]

I lined the entire cab and the roof with no headliner with Kilmat, and it helped a lot, obviously with noise too! I did the inside of the outside door skins, and then behind the door panel thingy as well. Big quieting!

 

[Bgunner]

+1 on the mat. Dyno Mat or the like is the best option as it shields the heat from exhaust also as it is a insulation. The down fall is that the headliner, seats and rugs need to be pulled out to apply it. This combined with window tint will dramatically reduce the heat and in winter, once warmed up, the cold from entering the cab. If your door seals are bad then replacing those will also be a great help. The mat can also be put inside the door on the outer skin to help with noise and heat exchange.

Also think of it like this: A trucks door is huge compared to the over all cabin inside verses say a 4 door car. There is much more air volume that is cooled in a car so when a car door is opened less of that cold air is escaping unlike a truck, especially a single cab, where the door is open about one quarter of the confining space is moved. This is also why a trucks cab will cool faster than a cars will.