MY build thread...'88 Bronco II Desert Rat Patrol Edition: 1/26/24 update!

[Peter Griffin]

I figure if I started a thread like this it would keep me honest and on point, so I'm gonna have at it, warts and all!

This '88 Bronco II was previously owned by my neighbor, whose soon to be retiring from the Army and moving back home and not wanting to incur the expense of shipping/towing/trailering it over 2500 miles.

88K miles and it appeared to be relatively leak free and the body was literally 90%+, except the paint is SMOKED. Interior isn't too bad either; the seats are actually amazing both in appearance and foam/cushion condition, which is likely due to the seat covers that were over them for who knows how long. The carpet was...well, 35 years old, so enough said!

I had it for nearly two weeks before deciding to finally buy it. I had it inspected by a local mechanic (which ended up being a complete waste of money, but whatever) and noted several mechanical issues which were going to require attention.

The power steering made a louder whining noise than my Challenger Hellcat at full throttle! The A/C, which is an absolute, nonnegotiable requirement in the extreme SW AZ desert environment, was disabled and the belt was in the back. Upon throwing it back on I found out why; it worked but likewise was making horrible noises as the clutch was obviously in the process of going south. Speaking of noises (and smell for that matter) the catalytic converter was deleted and replaced with a Cherry Bomb muffler that exited ahead of the rear wheel. That likewise needs to be rectified.

There was quite evidently a fair amount of questionable accessories too; not so much in their purpose/function but their installation. There was a partially disabled alarm system nesting under the steering column that was apparently responsible for a voltage leak and killing the battery, 4 roof mounted LED fog/spot lights that looked (and were wired) like they were installed on a drunken Friday after getting their JC Whitney order in the mail earlier that day and an aftermarket H/U that was just lying in the dash and no secured in any particular manner, which was "complimented" by dash and rear panel speakers by some of China's "finest" hot garbage audio...

My plans are extensive but modest, and I'll keep the thread updated, I'm retired and have nothing but free time...and I'm gonna need it!

Much thanks to @Uncle Gump. @ecgreen and @RumPunch amongst others who have been inspirational in their builds and @Shran for his likewise awesome assistance in providing technical information and guidance in response to some of my sillier questions...

 

[RumPunch]

Can not wait to see the progress. I can only dream of having "free time" but look forward to seeing this epically low mileage bronco take shape and you along the journey. I honestly hope it does smoother than mine and do not mean that to be discouraging at all!! I hope some of my struggles help you!

 

[Peter Griffin]

Soooo I got an arse-load of stuff rolling in. I prioritized mechanical reliability first. Inspired (or more likely terrified) by pictures of @Uncle Gump's fuel tank I ordered a new tank, sender w/low pressure pump, frame-rail mounted high pressure pump and filter. Using a half azzed "test" I saw somewhere I'm fairly certain the fuel pressure regulator is OK. At the suggestion of some of y'all I tested the fuel pressure at the rail and is was approximately 18 PSI which I believe is about half of what it should be...which explains the VERY hard starting.

Complete new A/C system including compressor/clutch, belt, lines, accumulator and condenser in addition to an extreme temperature orifice tube since it can get near 120 here in the summer...! Also have a new power steering pump, lines, belt and inline filter for a lil insurance. It already has an AlloyWorks 3-row aluminum radiator but in the interest of a fresh start I ordered their complete kit which includes an electric fan and controller module...so at some point I'll offer the one that's in there now up for sale, it's fine but whatever! New upper and lower radiator lines and stock thermostat (more on THAT later).

Cosmetically it's gonna be worked over inside and out. Speaking of out...that's what the interior is right now and down almost to the complete sheet metal; new MIP complete floor, headliner recovered, seat covers, all plastics to be cleaned/painted, gauge cluster to be updated/upgraded and a new Bluetooth HU and dash and rear panel speakers from Crutchfield. A metric ton of soundproofing and insulation and the doors be completely refreshed with new glass, weatherstripping, wipes, etc.

Full disclosure; I'm a Raptor liner NERD! The sheetmetal, inside and out, is excellent and near (98%+) rust free, as is the undercarriage. The plan is too line it inside and out with a distinct (and appropriate) desert color theme. We previously had an AWESOME '17 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon that was Gobi colored and I'll be ordering that exact tint to color the Raptor liner, with standard black Raptor liner being used on the bumpers (more on that too later...) the rocker panels and a portion of the hood. I'm debating following the factory paint lines but may just go traditional and go straight across. It's overkill but I'll likely do the interior sheetmetal too, prior to adding the insulation and soundproofing. I know it ain't no Mercedes, but it's more for protection and in the interest of a clean slate before slapping the new flooring over it...

It has a 3-inch body lift now and I'm debating leaving it on or taking it off and combining it with a lift kit...but I do know some of the body/frame bushings are SMOKED and cracked as all get out so they gotta go, along with every suspension bushing I can get my hands on. TRYING to avoid polyurethane to keep the NVH reasonable (did I say I know that it's not a Mercedes...?). It has 30x9.5x 15 tires on it now and I'll likely bump them up to 31 KO2s with some nice satin/low gloss black wheels.

I have two scan/code readers, a Chilton's manual, fairly awesome set of hand tools and a compressor and air tools in addition to several neighbors with 2-post lifts so I should be able to knock out the majority of the work to be done myself; the only thing I was looking at having done by someone else is the final alignment and A/C fill.

WHEW!

 

[Uncle Gump]

You got a big to do list... nothing like jumping in with both feet!

I'm gonna be real curious to see how well your cooling system package works out. Looks pretty sweet.

Looking forward to your progress.

 

[Peter Griffin]

@Uncle Gump with our insane peak summer temperatures the cooling system (for the truck itself and the passengers!) is super critical. My friend/PO told me he thought it was weird that the temp gauge hardly ever moved, and although I thought the fancypants 3-row aluminum radiator might have something to do with, once I got into it I discovered it was one of the two things I thought it was...

...a "stealth" thermostat...! Also stealth-like was the gasket which you can see was replaced with an insufficient amount of silicone gasket material...

So thus began the flushing process, including a reverse flush of the heater core and MAN did some crazy stuff come outta there. While I was flushing it I decided to (1) leave the thermostat out and (2) likewise save the new gasket for when it was finally flushed out and cleaned and ready for coolant. While futzing with all of this I noticed the Motorcraft part number for the upper radiator hose match the part number...for the lower radiator hose. An image search of stock versus Alloy Works radiator clearly showed the radiator inlet/outlet were configured differently from stock. Not only that but the upper hose had to be pulled so hard to get the thermostat housing neck to line up with the block that the hose partially collapsed, by about 25% I'd say. New hoses were in order but since this was a custom application I went with the universal Gates style that are trim to fit. Getting ready to have it, what happened next was par for the course...

The old thermostat housing bolt snapped off in the block "trick". After watching an AWESOME YouTube video about using a dead blow hammer on the fan wrench to get the fan removed I had all the room I needed since I already had the radiator and A/C condenser removed. Dremel'd the bolt face flat, dimpled it to get a starter bit lined up and drilled it out. Since the bolt had been out recently it actually spun further into the block, got the EZ-out tapped in and after a few spins with the tool it backed out by hand...Victory is Mine!

I bought a new coolant/wiper fluid reservoir too since the one in there was so massively discolored, so once I get everything back together again I'll flush it until it's as "clear" as it's gonna get and button it up.

Since I have a lot of space to work around in the engine compartment now, I'm gonna take Chris Fix up on his how to clean a motor YouTube video and scrub this sucker down; not only am I retired and have nothing but free time but I'm also obsessive/compulsive and borderline insanely fastidious!

But wait! There's more... The crown jewel of the cooling system teardown was this:

...yes, your eyes aren't deceiving you, that's a chunk of PVC pipe that fell out whilst (yeah, I said "whilst"!) removing the lower radiator hose. The block end of the hose looked like it had been cut by the gnashing teeth of a rabid wolverine too.

I have roughly 20 hours or so working on it right now. I'm in NO hurry to get anything done but it won't sit more than 1-2 days without having hands on it. I figure it's going to take me between 100-200 hours total; could be more, highly unlikely it would be less. Nevertheless it's gonna be a hoot and a half!

 

[Uncle Gump]

Well anything you can do to keep that 2.9L cool is money well spent.

Nice save on the thermostat bolt. Looks as though your cooling system was both neglected and abused. Lots of rust by the look of things. I'm not sure on a 2.9L but many blocks have drain plugs. If they do... I would pull them and see if you can drain more of the sediments out. The heater cores are cheap... and you'll never find an easier one to do if you feel the need to just replace it.

Your enthusiasm may just inspire me a bit to get out and tinker on my own rigs. Lord knows I have much to do. Snow on the ground here but looking for 50's over the weekend.

Not sure if you know... TRS has a sister site... Bronco Corral. Lots more Bronco fodder and @Jim Oaks just put a build thread for a project Bronco II... The Maurader.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Glad to hear someone else is taking the plunge to fix up a Bronco II. I fell in love with them with my first one even though I only had it on the road for a month and a half and it was troublesome the entire time and has been in pieces ever since. That is my 88. My choptop was actually bought as a parts truck for the 88 that ended up being built into something resembling what I really wanted. Dumb thing won’t keep a motor though it seems. Bought, fixed and sold an 89 Eddie Bauer at college and should have kept it, awesome little rig. Can’t wait to get some of my other projects out of the way and get back to the B2s

 

[JerryC]

My 2 cents, keep an eye on EBAY for the Ford service manuals, especially the vacuum and electrical. they are far and away better than Chiltons.
Parts are much scarcer now than when I got my 88 running, but EBAY is probably still the best place to find parts you can't get at the local auto parts store.

I fixed my own AC like you are doing, learned how while doing it. Off the top of my head it was about 11 hours labor and about $1,000 in parts and tools. I'll guess prices have gone up in the last few years. Replacing the evaporator took the most time, lots of small bolts on the airbox housing and some were covered over (tape, goo and grime) and hard to get to. I had an issue where the vacuum wouldn't pull all the way down. It was an o-ring in the manifold on top of the compressor, watch out for that one.

My PS whines like mad too, it had a new pump on it when I bought it. I just live with it.

 

[Dhaile]

Yay! Someone who is looking to save a lost dog like me. But really, lack of maintenance and just general lack of caring how things are done is disheartening when it’s found. I’ve found little crap on my mine so far. Was it a pain to do it correctly? Only after going through everything they did wrong. It took 3 very full days this weekend, but mine is running much smoother than it was. And is now largely leak free….for now. I just really like these little things and think they’re worth saving.

 

[Peter Griffin]

I have a saying when it comes to stuff like this...if you don't do it right the first time...you're going to have to the second!

Spent a lot of time on it this past weekend and likewise will today. In the process of taking the power steering and A/C compressor off I found a series of homemade "spacers" that were basically stacked washers that were zip tied together and the tail of the zip tie was still intact, likely used to get it in position while threading the bolt.

The A/C compressor had only 3 bolts in it which was rectified by a trip to the hardware store. To get as much fluid out of the steering box as possible I turkey-basted the reservoir to empty that and then saw a couple of good YouTube videos about flushing the system (although some were generic and not specific to the 2.9 Bronco II/Ranger). By lifting the front end and turning the wheel with the motor off I was able to get an additional 16-ounces out of the steering box, so I'm relatively sure it's as good as it's gonna get!

With all of the easy access I've been cleaning on the caked on oil/grease/dirt that's basically everywhere which is both time consuming and satisfying, but making a HUGE mess!

Getting ready for the fuel system replacement I found the bumper was hand-tight threaded to the brackets (which likely explained at least some of the noise/rattling I was hearing) and the skid plate was missing a bolt. Fortunately so far I haven't encountered any hardware rust/corrosion issues and I typically spray down the bolts of whatever I'll be working on next the day before with some PB Blaster to make sure it's not an issue.

Complete exhaust system from the downpipe back including a new catalytic converter and O2 sensor are on the way. Once that's in along with everything else mechanical (complete fuel system, A/C and power steering) I'll do all fluids (oil/filter, transmission/filter, front and rear diffs and transfer case) and then I can move along to the interior.

Since the body bushings under the 3-inch lift blocks are trash, I ordered a 2-inch lift from Duff's along with new bushings. I'll likewise have to go through all of the suspension bushings (sway bar, leaf springs, radius arms, etc.) and I'm going to try and stay with rubber and avoid polyurethane if I can help it, I know it's "better" but the NVH increase isn't worth it, at least to me. AGAIN, I know it's not a Mercedes, but I don't want to have to wear a mouth guard to keep my teeth from rattling running down the street on a local errand! I'm thinking about using Skyjacker's 1.5-2 inch lift along with their dual-steering stabilizers and installing new/stock 5-leaf springs while I'm freshening everything up...they're relatively inexpensive and everyone knows what happens when you start mixing 35-year old components with new ones...!

 

[Dhaile]

I have a saying when it comes to stuff like this...if you don't do it right the first time...you're going to have to the second!

Spent a lot of time on it this past weekend and likewise will today. In the process of taking the power steering and A/C compressor off I found a series of homemade "spacers" that were basically stacked washers that were zip tied together and the tail of the zip tie was still intact, likely used to get it in position while threading the bolt.

View attachment 89037

The A/C compressor had only 3 bolts in it which was rectified by a trip to the hardware store. To get as much fluid out of the steering box as possible I turkey-basted the reservoir to empty that and then saw a couple of good YouTube videos about flushing the system (although some were generic and not specific to the 2.9 Bronco II/Ranger). By lifting the front end and turning the wheel with the motor off I was able to get an additional 16-ounces out of the steering box, so I'm relatively sure it's as good as it's gonna get!

With all of the easy access I've been cleaning on the caked on oil/grease/dirt that's basically everywhere which is both time consuming and satisfying, but making a HUGE mess!

Getting ready for the fuel system replacement I found the bumper was hand-tight threaded to the brackets (which likely explained at least some of the noise/rattling I was hearing) and the skid plate was missing a bolt. Fortunately so far I haven't encountered any hardware rust/corrosion issues and I typically spray down the bolts of whatever I'll be working on next the day before with some PB Blaster to make sure it's not an issue.

Complete exhaust system from the downpipe back including a new catalytic converter and O2 sensor are on the way. Once that's in along with everything else mechanical (complete fuel system, A/C and power steering) I'll do all fluids (oil/filter, transmission/filter, front and rear diffs and transfer case) and then I can move along to the interior.

Since the body bushings under the 3-inch lift blocks are trash, I ordered a 2-inch lift from Duff's along with new bushings. I'll likewise have to go through all of the suspension bushings (sway bar, leaf springs, radius arms, etc.) and I'm going to try and stay with rubber and avoid polyurethane if I can help it, I know it's "better" but the NVH increase isn't worth it, at least to me. AGAIN, I know it's not a Mercedes, but I don't want to have to wear a mouth guard to keep my teeth from rattling running down the street on a local errand! I'm thinking about using Skyjacker's 1.5-2 inch lift along with their dual-steering stabilizers and installing new/stock 5-leaf springs while I'm freshening everything up...they're relatively inexpensive and everyone knows what happens when you start mixing 35-year old components with new ones...!

I find poly replacements ok. They are a bit stiffer. But, I also put kyb shocks on everything I own which helps offset for some softness. I don’t personally like skyjacker products. I’ve found that they wear very quickly and ride quality plummets. Maybe their quality has gotten better than 8 or 9 years ago though. I still have a bit of work to do on mine. But, it’s mostly Midwest cancer prevention. With the exception of the shock towers, it’s just surface rust for the time being. Jeff’s Bronco graveyard is doing God’s work by having new stuff in stock. So the towers are ordered. All the mechanical things are now in great shape. I was shocked how many 35 year old components I pulled off. I think it just speaks to how these things can actually last.

 

[RobbieD]

Following this with interest.

Good on you for putting putting some TLC in this old classic. It already looks to be a nice truck as you acquired it, and it will be very exceptional when you're done. I like how you're planning, approaching, and doing the work, too.

To echo @JerryC 's advice, look at getting some Ford manuals. Well worth it, and at modest cost on eBay with patience. To me, working on my trucks is a lot more enjoyable having the manuals on hand.

AGAIN, I know it's not a Mercedes, but I don't want to have to wear a mouth guard to keep my teeth from rattling running down the street on a local errand!

I just don't put my dentures in when I drive my B2. Problem solved.

Good luck! Keep the updates coming.

 

[Peter Griffin]

Big news today...I founds there's actually an engine underneath 35-years of caked on oil/grease/dirt...!

6 hours of quality wrenching time on it today...whew! Kind of bummed out I couldn't get the in-line (magnetic) filter to work with the power steering but there just wasn't room without kinking the low pressure line. Oh well...

I have the Chilton's service manual and two code readers, and believe it or not the LMC catalog comes in handy some times to see how things go (back) together...! I can't for the life of me figure out why AlloyWorks configured the radiator outlets the way that they did (differently) from stock, but it's a pain in the arse as far as replacing the hoses are concerned.

I now have all the parts in to replace the fuel system so once I make sure my power steering pump install is solid I gotta re-flush the cooling system a few more times and get the new radiator in and wire the electric fan and can tackle the fuel system after that. I'm hoping that the fan controller is reliable, I'm looking forward to ditching the factory fan which is huge parasitic drag on the motor. I'll get the entire A/C replaced but I'm leaving it unplugged/un-belted until I can have it properly filled at my local shop (one of the few things I'm not going to do myself actually).

My new front windows came in today too and I'm waiting on a MASSIVE order from LMC for all sorts of interior widgets...

As far as the suspension goes, I'm honestly waffling a bit. I thought the 3-inch body lift was a bit much which is why I opted for the 2-inch from Duff's and I've been going back and forth between them and Skyjacker for the lift. Coming from numerous (JK/JL/JT) Jeeps I never thought much about Skyjacker but they sure seem popular with the Bronco II crowd, so I honestly considered them after getting some (admittedly anecdotal) bad vibes from some Duff customers' tales of woe. No matter; I'll figure it out!

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

First, I want to say I like the Rat Patrol reference, been working through watching the show.

I haven’t really had any complaints about the poly bushings. I did them with a 2” body lift from Duff too on the choptop. My suspension on that is kinda it’s own thing. 3” Duff coils and axle pivot drops, F-150 spring perches in the front so it’s effectively 5” of suspension. Rear was Explorer leafs with two extra leafs and the Belltech drop shackles. Sitting on 35’s I think the suspension is a little too hard, but it works. I will say tire pressure plays a part to ride quality. When I first mounted the 35’s, I aired them to 35 psi. Side walls said a max of like 50. At 35 PSI, I drew a chalk line across the tread and went down the road. Felt every pebble and I was only wearing about an inch in the middle of the tread. I stopped airing down at 15 PSI because I was getting nervous and it was wearing most of the width of the tread. Rides waaaay better. Never has been a problem running low air pressure like that.

 

[JerryC]

RE: ride quality and poly bushings.
I used poly bushings on both of my sway bars, front and rear. No change in ride quality other than greatly increased stability over the trashed rubber bushings.

I'm somewhat sad to say this, but my BII rides noticeably better than my 2022 Badlands Sasquatch 2dr. Quieter too.