Official A4LD Problem Thread!

[pianoman2]

So far so good. Got rid of the A4LD case with the blown passage in the governor area. Used the new parts I had in it, plus two new servos for OD and intermediate bands, plus two new bands in a newer case with a new pump.

Tightened bands to 120 inch pounds, then backed off two complete rounds.

No more delayed reverse. It's there when you put it in reverse.

Still wants to shift a little late to my liking, but it shifts firm everytime. You can definatley tell when overdrive kicks in. Even with the small 2.8 V-6 it will fly down the road now. Will back out the modulator valve screw a little and see if that will help it shift a little earlier. Otherwise, I couldn't be happier with the way this A4LD works now.

 

[pianoman2]

Anyone know where I can find information on the spring strengths in the vacuum modulators offerd? I still can't get the shifts points down to a more acceptable level. Shifts out of 1st at about 33-35. Then second at about 45 then 3rd about 55 and overdrive/tc lockup at 65.

Adjusting modulator and kickdown has not helped much, think may need different governor? Or weaker Modulator?

 

[venom97]

ok,ill add to this. my 91 4.0 4x4 had no park since the day i bought it. (last nov) everyone said its the park pin and its an easy fix. bought my part today tore it apart and the park pin looks fine........

 

[big91explorer]

Well, 94 exploder, A4LD trans, since i've had it (last thursday, haha) It has not gone into O/D, and I pulled up a code that says 3-4 shift solenoid, so going to try and replace it. It wont even try and go into OD so that's what makes me think that's accurate.

Anything else that would cause it to not even try and go into OD?

 

[trail B2]

A4Ld

I have A 86 B2 with an A4Ld witch worked pretty good for A while Really liked it off road.One day I was going dirt biking pulling a very light trailer and the motor revved looked in my mirror there was oil every where pulled over and oil was dripping off my bike in 5 or 6 different places .
Put the Bronco on A trailer hauled it home put fluid in it none left to leak, and it didn't leak A drop. Did A tranny service and changed A internal and inline filter put in by the company that rebuilt the tranny.Drove it about A month and it did it Again so I started Bringing extra fluid when it did it again the extra fluid poured out that's ok something to fix and move on. Took out the tranny and the front seal was pushed out new seal put in with recommended sealant about A month it does it again.What I finally figured out after pulling out the tranny three times and walking no less than 20 miles all together is that something kept plugging up the inline filter causing back pressure and pushing out or rolling back the seal and loosing all my fluid in one shot.I went and got it fixed but never could really trust it so I have A M50D now

 

[Tedybear]

I'll list my own "Tales of Woe" regarding our BII with it's cursed set of A4LD's.

Leaving the one that came with it off the hitlist (past owner 'rebuilt' a mustang A4LD, older design according to transmission shop judging by the pump...Turns out all he did was swap the output shafts, crimped off the cooler lines, busted the O2 sensor, and never tightened the pump to bell housing bolts--all several turns loose)

But I digress...

After the first one failed, (due to listed reasons). We went to the local "Yard o' Parts" and found a decent A4LD out of a new(er) ranger with the 4x4. Which doesn't make a difference, he sells them without the tail extension or transfer case. (swapped ours onto it) It went flawless, but had a strange "Warble" sound that several well known shops couldn't figure out---but blamed the engine/mounts/balance of the engine/etc... Basically they where guessing.

Anywho--Heading back on a 60 mile trip? Started blowing blue smoke/smoke out the rear of the BII. Figured it had to be engine related. It wasn't. Made it all the way home, and this A4LD shifted flawless---Until the next day when I checked the fluid, wasn't even near the dipstick. Put 'er into "D"...and slippppppppppppppppppped. had to let it sit at idle for a few minutes, and then it went into "D" like nothing happened? Nursed it over to the family "shop". And inspected the damage.

Front seal intact, found converter out of balance/alignment due to that stupid designed spacer with the pilot. Turns out it was only 1/2 there, and the converter wedged slightly when we installed it. Would have been great if a shop had figured that part out, and just loosened the T/C and reset it back into place. As it stands? Front bushing totally crap--T/C's pump "snout" had a score mark 1" long at 1/2" wide from the rubbing.

I purchased a replacement T/C, Bushing, gaskets for the pump to housing, etc.. Had to outsource the bellhousing/pump assy to a very well spoken of shop--they installed the new bushing, cleaned/inspected the pump and verified it was still "good", and realigned everything.

Fast forward: Used the ATSG guide book, and correctly installed the front thrust washer, gasket, and rubber seal...new o-rings on the bolts as well. Everything to spec. Changed fluid and filter (usual gray snot on the pan as expected) Test drove it, and it went fair. Here's the current issues:

Goes into reverse strong, seems weak when it goes into drive/overdrive. Doesn't slip in first gear---heck, it won't SHIFT out of first gear either!! Unless you have the selector in manual "2", then it works 1st to 2nd. But put 'er into either drive or O/D? And it reverts directly to first gear.

Now just before it did that? When it was actually shifting--- It hit all gears and T/C lockup normally---(kinda high for the RPM from the old T/C, just by 300 RPM). If you maintain 55-70 mph, and hit even a slight grade in the road? It would appear to kick back and forth from 4th (O/D) to 3rd like clockwork. Could it be the T/C clutch also appearing to have the same effect? I'm not sure, It just feels like 4th downshifting to 3rd..upshifting to 4th...downshift...rinse and repeat.. It did that several times before it did the "I don't wanna shift out of first gear" bit.

FYI, the shift select is 100%. And I'm not sure who did the last adjustment on the throttle kick-down lever? You could floor the gas pedal--and the lever didn't even twitch. Due to having no reference on the adjustment? (and the fact it wasn't shifting right anyway) We winged it. I released the ratchet 'clamp' at the firewall, punched the gas to the floor...and it ratcheted back into place. (it now moves to it's fullest extent when the gas is on the floor). Also checked the modulator valve hose. Nice and tight connections, and no fluid in the tube.

It's been parked for a couple of weeks while I've been getting over the flu bug--and using the wife's Hyn. Tibby and our restoration project '75 F250. (looks like a rusted hulk from the doors back LOL...but at 9 miles a gallon? Can't do that for much longer)

Here's the plan, and feel free to CHIME IN WITH HINTS AND SUGGESTIONS!! (and NOT "Swap a manual into it" We CAN NOT get the parts in my area, I checked already!)

Picked up a transmission pressure gauge set. Going to record pressures first.

Drop the pan, inspect for carnage.. Remove the bolt for the filter and re-torque down. Just in case it's to tight, and binding valve action.

Change out the Vacuum mod valve. (it was only $14 at the parts store...might as well get it over with LOL)

I'm considering hosing the batcrap out of the valve body, every nook and cranny with brake-cleaner. Just incase anything got kicked free and is blocking anything. I figure hose the snot out of it, and let it "dry" for about 30 minutes before putting the pan back on.

Reassemble, refill....and once everything is back together? Redo the pressure tests and see if anything changed. The pressures might be right for all I know? But it's one more test to attempt to figure this pain in the rear end out.

That's the plan...Any input is very welcome!!

S-

 

[steve manley]

my 94 would start off in high geaR kinda stopped doing thie after a while. nice shift kit, trans lasted for 3,500 mile and the pump or converter exploaded. tall tires, stock gearing and this trans is a bad combo. exchanged the trans for a rebuilt unit. supposed to have a hd converter and swift kit-no cigar. got a jr kit from trans go. guy says it will shift to hard if all the mods are made. I am going to drill all the plate holes and see if the shifts are to hard. if this doesn't work am going with a c-4 and drop the overdrive. I dfo like the od though

 

[doorgunner]

What brand A4LD pan gasket seals best?

The xmsn pan sealing area is nice & flat on a granite counter-top....
I torque the bolts correctly......
The ************ rubber gasket still leaks......so I tightenen it up.....
" " " " " " " " " " "......
Now it's pinched in two.....
2nd gasket leaked......pinched it in two, too.....

This ain't my first rodeo....errr..ahhh.....xmsn gasket...but I can't seem to get em to seal.....

anybody got a dependable brand they use...(no rubber gaskets-please)

 

[grizzard]

A4LD problems

need help, 93 ranger 3.0.. just out of blue yesterday the transmission seemed stuck in low (auto) shifted a couple times and was fine. later in the day truck would not start in park, shifted to netrual and started. now the transmission seems stuck in second gear only, and will not start in park or netraul? Only way to start is jump aross the solenoid on fender. fluid is nice color no leaks, smells. replace fluid and filter around 20k ago. any suggestions

 

[MikeWild]

Well I'm onto A4LD #4, and probably going to #5 soon. On the weekend we were heading out camping. It was a brutally hot day here, and we'd been driving for around 6 hours so far. Made it up one of the steeper hills off road when I noticed a serious lack of power. Glanced in the rear view and saw the streak of fluid along the trail behind us. I pulled over and saw that the tranny decided to puke all it's fluid out. We waited about 2 hours, threw 2 liters of fluid into it and turned around to head out. Didn't get too far until it puked it's fluid again on another hill. Got towed out and flat decked home. The next day I threw about 7.5 liters into it, and she appears to run & shift fine. Now I know that these trannys like to puke the fluid when they get hot. The seal between the tranny opens up, once they cool down, it should be ok as long as you don't over-rev the snot out of them. I currently have a cooler from an F250. I'm now thinking about adding a larger cooler, temp gauge & electric fan onto the tranny cooler, hopefully that way I can see when she's getting too hot and try to cool it down with the fan.

What other things have people done to help prolong the life of their A4LD's?

 

[wahlspyder]

Got a 92 ranger 4x4 auto o/d with the 4.0L. Problem is that when it goes into overdrive it shudders constantly. It doesn't matter what speed or what RPM's - only thing that seems to cause it is shifting into overdrive. Any ideas on what is causing it or how to fix it? It isn't like its slipping. It is almost like the lock-up torques is locking and unlocking very quickly?

 

[Tedybear]

In the case of the cooling problems? The aftermarket coolers, the big ones...are great for any wicked hottttttttttt areas. This is also the case where I'd recommend dumping the stock t-stat (at 195) and go with the optional 185. (sense the cooler lines run not only to the cooler? But also the coil cooler built into the radiator).

Also remember when using AC? The transmission cooler is just in front of the condenser coil---and that thing gets wicked HOTTT when the AC is running. It's to the point I'd recommend installing a replacement cooler several inches IN FRONT of the condenser, that way any radiant heat won't have a bad effect.

As for the 92? It might be something as simple as the band needing to be adjusted...or it's about time for a rebuild if it's really bad. I know the A4LD's had "changed" during the early 90's...just can't remember the year of it.

As for the one with the starting issues? Sounds like two problems kicked in at about the same time. The NSS (Neutral safety switch)? Could be on the way out. I'd also replace the vacuum modulator valve (it's a real treat ***NOT*** to change). Might want to pull the vacuum hose off at the valve and see if you have transmission fluid in it. That's the quickest way to see if it's got a busted rubber. Not saying yeah that's the problem...Just my two cents.

S-

 

[Rev]

'87 A4LD 4x4 O/D Shudder

Had the tranny seal and bellhousing replaced about 3k miles ago as the previous owner used a screwdriver to remove the old seal during engine swap.

When shifting into O/D the truck starts to shudder...let off the gas and the shudder disappears. No shudder in other gears. Tranny fluid where it needs to be and right color too.

Thoughts?

 

[0778drz110]

I recently bought a '88 Bronco II with the a4ld and haven't put 20 miles on it.
Went to put new tires on it....had no reverse(and neutral) to get out of the shop! Had to put the transfer case in neutral(took me 20 minutes to think of that ) and rolled out. Got about 2 miles down the road and it had explosive diarehha at a stop sign. Lost every single gear


1988 b2
35x12.50 tires
EB d44/9 with 3.08 gears
supposedly 56K miles

*side-note: after i cleaned it I noticed the transfer case a a leak/crack...awesome....


Any ideas whats wrong? The junkyard has a tranny and transfer for $225 I just have to install it somehow(never installed a tranny).

 

[Tedybear]

Had the tranny seal and bellhousing replaced about 3k miles ago as the previous owner used a screwdriver to remove the old seal during engine swap.

When shifting into O/D the truck starts to shudder...let off the gas and the shudder disappears. No shudder in other gears. Tranny fluid where it needs to be and right color too.

Thoughts?

About the only thing that comes to mind, other then incorrect fluid level? Ok, maybe a couple of things LOL. The overdrive band could be worn or out of adjustment...that or a weak servo not putting pressure on the band hard enough to fully engage. There is also a solenoid used (at least the one in mine has it) for 4th gear engagement. If that solenoid went bad or is going bad? It could energize and not fully engage. Probably not it, but I figured I'd throw it out there.

There's not much wrong with using a puller or large screwdriver to get the old pump seal out, provided you have used every care. The part to remember is that the new seal needs to be "Staked" into position so it won't pop out. The aluminum edge is actually pretty thin in my eyes. So when the factory manual says to stake it? That is actually rolling over a slight amount of that lip against the seals edge holding it in place.

S-