I borrowed some big wrenches from work and had to buy a 38mm socket from Advance (that's getting returned). After sweat and blood and backache, I was able to adjust my radius arms. Arm bolt head was 1 1/2", nut was 1 7/16", and the jam nut was 1 3/4". I found that my passenger's side arm was 1 turn out and my drivers side arm was 3 turns out. I I wound the driver's side in 2 turns so shorten the arm and slightly reduce my driver's side castor. Both arms are now at 1 turn out.
Since I had such a hard time getting the driver's side 1" heim bolt out, I decided to swap in the greasable bolts I made. I will swap the passengers side next chance I get.
The other project was to install the 1/2" spacer under the driver's side coil spring. I hit the spacer with a few coats of Chassis Saver this week to stop the rust before it starts. This added about 1" of space between the center of the front axle and the fender on the drivers side. Also helped the caster situation.
As a result, the truck tracks almost perfectly straight. True test will be too and from work tomorrow. I think both sides need another +0.5 degree camber to get my camber slightly positive. Then I will check the toe-in again and get the new tires mounted and balanced (hopefully Saturday).
Then onto the floor pan... I have to make arrangments for that this weekend.
I discovered today that my temp gauge was rising and rising. I turned the setpoint on the fan down and it helped, but I am after feeling the radiator today, I think the coolant channels through the fins are mostly plugged. I am going to put some coolant flush and distilled water in soon and run that for a couple days and see if that helps. Then I will replace the pump, thermostat, water outlet, upper hose, and lower hose. I guess I will see how that works and replace the radiator if need be.
Any suggestions or tips on a thorough coolant flush? I have heard a small amount of white vinegar in distilled water does wonders for cleaning out the rust in the coolant system.