Spray Painting and Clear Coating my new Tailgate.

[Lefty]

The finished product.
The original dealer badge , The original Ford badge. And I added the 4x4 badge. They did an awesome job painting it for just $200.

The New Tailgate was $118, New Plexiglass $103 and New Year Window Eagle Decal $38.

View attachment 98691

Sweet! Well worth $200.00. Body and fender, paint and finish are just as important as mechanical repairs. They help the truck to hold its value.

 

[Angry Possum]

How much did the original dealership pay you to have their badge put back on for advertising?

$3.25 plus a $10 gift card

 

[Blmpkn]

$3.25 plus a $10 gift card

Not too shabby!

 

[JoshT]

That came out great.

Turns out a friend at the body shop near me is going to spray the tailgate for $200. A no brainer. Let the pros do it. Thanks everyone for your input.

I need a friend like that, but I've got a little more than a tailgate.

I'm not sure that they could have paid me enough to put the dealer badge back on.

 

[Lefty]

That came out great.



I need a friend like that, but I've got a little more than a tailgate.

I'm not sure that they could have paid me enough to put the dealer badge back on.

Those 2K two part epoxy rattle can paint systems are expensive but in my opinion, well worth it. They may cost hundreds of dollars for larger projects but if you have the patience they will match right in and look every bit as good as new and last equally just as long.

A friend and I are sort of looking around for another project truck hoping to find one that only needs paint, but not rusted beyond repair. It might be fun and even profitable.

 

[JoshT]

Those 2K two part epoxy rattle can paint systems are expensive but in my opinion, well worth it. They may cost hundreds of dollars for larger projects but if you have the patience they will match right in and look every bit as good as new and last equally just as long.

Oh, I'd agree it's a good option if you can manage a good result. A body panel I might be able to pull off. Unfortunately this truck is going to need a full respray.

Hood, grill, and driver fender need color change to match truck. Top of the bed rails and tailgate need to be repainted sanding for a, since a failed, spray-in bed liner. The wheel arches on driver front and both rear need to have holes from fender flares filled and painted. The clear coat on the roof has failed. Finally I want to swap from chrome to body color bumpers. The doors are in good shape though.

A solid color I might be able to pull off a panel at the time, even if paying someone else to do it. This one is the factory dark grey metallic for 99 model year and I want to keep the same color. So yeah, it just needs a full respray.

 

[Lefty]

Oh, I'd agree it's a good option if you can manage a good result. A body panel I might be able to pull off. Unfortunately this truck is going to need a full respray.

Hood, grill, and driver fender need color change to match truck. Top of the bed rails and tailgate need to be repainted sanding for a, since a failed, spray-in bed liner. The wheel arches on driver front and both rear need to have holes from fender flares filled and painted. The clear coat on the roof has failed. Finally I want to swap from chrome to body color bumpers. The doors are in good shape though.

A solid color I might be able to pull off a panel at the time, even if paying someone else to do it. This one is the factory dark grey metallic for 99 model year and I want to keep the same color. So yeah, it just needs a full respray.

Sounds like you're doing the right thing. Let's keep those old Rangers on the road, and looking sharp!

 

[Angry Possum]

Sounds like you're doing the right thing. Let's keep those old Rangers on the road, and looking sharp!

Yeah no doubt.

 

[Shran]

Good call on having a shop do it. I am all in favor of doing my own painting but at that price, why? Color match 1k spray cans at my paint supply place are $38 each... a tailgate would take at least two, plus clear, plus time.

I would have left the dealer tag off. I've made them peel off stickers before as a condition of the sale... why should they get to plaster my car with crap if I'm not getting paid for it?

 

[Angry Possum]

Good call on having a shop do it. I am all in favor of doing my own painting but at that price, why? Color match 1k spray cans at my paint supply place are $38 each... a tailgate would take at least two, plus clear, plus time.

I would have left the dealer tag off. I've made them peel off stickers before as a condition of the sale... why should they get to plaster my car with crap if I'm not getting paid for it?

I actually like the Ford Badge on it. It keeps it stock looking if I ever sell it.

 

[Bronco648]

@Angry Possum I'm in a similar situation; I found a nice tailgate but it needs to be painted. My '11 RCSB was a work truck and, while decent, isn't in the best condition, body-wise. So, I was going to tackle the paint job myself.

My question: how were you going to prep/scuff the old paint on the edges of the tailgate (where the latches/cables are) and on the bottom (where the drain holes are)?

I've seen the red Scotch Brite recommended but wasn't sure if that's enough or not. TIA.

 

[Lefty]

If it were mine to do, I would clean and sand all of the bare metal back to shiney bright. Use whatever abrasives you wish. I would open the drain holes from the inside. and make sure there is no debris.Then thoroughly wash the original paint job, being sure to remove all the wax. Next sand everything down to smooth with 400 grit,

The best/easiest paints are 2k. Excepting the primer, these are true "epoxy" 2 part aerosol paints in rattle cans. There is a button on the bottom of the can which activates the paint. I'm just guessing but you might need 2 cans of primer, 2 cans of paint, and two cans of clear coat.

You can get 2K from Eastwood, but each can will cost an additional $10.00 to ship. NAPA also sells them, no charge for shipping. One NAPA store here in town, has a paint specialist who will mix the paint according to the paint number (not the VIN) and also eyeball/correct any subtle differences between the new paint and the old. Eastwood can't do this, of course.

The first pass is primer. This is a 2K that dries by evaporation. It's good stuff: good coverage, good texture, good body, and fast drying. Spray on 2-3 coats in long strokes with a 50% overlap, each right after the previous flashes off.

Wait 12 hours, then sand again with 400 grit but only if imperfections are there.

Then apply 3 coats of 2k paint, long straight strokes with 50% overlap. Sand again if need be, but use 1,000 or 2,000 grit to smooth off any drips or dry spots.

Then spray 3 coats of clear. If need be, wait 12 hours, then wet sand with 2, 3, or even 5000 grit.

You probably won't need to sand in between all those coats, but if you want perfection and you do not have a spray booth, you might encounter some problems.

Then buff with a polishing compound for a showroom shine. This is time consuming and expensive, but the very best way to go. Done right, that final finish, the fine wet sand, and the buff job, can look every bit as good as a professional job, perhaps even better with a 5,000 grit wet sand and buff.

Here's a rattlecan tailgate I did for a friend. Note my reflection. Caution! Images in the tail gate appear fatter than they do in real life!

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Spray can painting usually looks like crap because of the user. They are more difficult to spray properly than using a gun. They are made for convenience, not perfect end result.
But if are very consistent with the coating and distance of spray, it can turn out very nice.

Graffiti artists are particular with can and tip selection...and usually have a variety of different tips.

If you wanna get really crazy you can even flat sand between coats to kill the orange peel.

 

[Angry Possum]

@Angry Possum I'm in a similar situation; I found a nice tailgate but it needs to be painted. My '11 RCSB was a work truck and, while decent, isn't in the best condition, body-wise. So, I was going to tackle the paint job myself.

My question: how were you going to prep/scuff the old paint on the edges of the tailgate (where the latches/cables are) and on the bottom (where the drain holes are)?

I've seen the red Scotch Brite recommended but wasn't sure if that's enough or not. TIA.

I purchased the tailgate brand new on eBay for $118 total w tax, it didn't need any work to it other than painting, and it was already primed, if that helps. PS I had to put my old hardware on it also.

 

[Lefty]

I purchased the tailgate brand new on eBay for $118 total w tax, it didn't need any work to it other than painting, and it was already primed, if that helps. PS I had to put my old hardware on it also.

View attachment 100085

A good deal on a tailgate!

If the color on your truck is black or deep blue then you can skip the primer step. Begin by scuff sanding with 400. grit. If white or a lighter color, spray it with gray primer anyway.