Suddenly lost 99% or braking power!

[E83]

Is it possible that they use standard on one end of a brake line and metric on the other just to be difficult? This doesnt explain why both fittings fit fine into a test coupler I have...

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[Mark_88]

Is it possible that they use standard on one end of a brake line and metric on the other just to be difficult? This doesnt explain why both fittings fit fine into a test coupler I have...

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yes, unfortunately...they often sell them side by side in stores in Canada. I often had to switch tools while working on the same part (especially brakes)...

So...go pick up a couple of those ends in both metric and imperial and try them...make sure to get the right line size connectors...

But I will add that I actually bought a part once (brake cylinder) that didn't have the hole threaded at all...just a slight oversight that I didn't see until it was installed and the shoes and hardware was installed...obviously you didn't change the end of the flex line so that shouldn't be an issue with this job...

 

[E83]

But the brake lines come with the connectors already on each end - so i will basically have to make my own brake line with a different connector on each end?

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[E83]

Also - what do you call that part that the new brake line feeds into? It looks like a nut with a hole... But there is a line on the back of it that runs to the MC. I am calling it a proportioning valvebut googling it comes up with nothing similar.

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[Mark_88]

The part is just the end of the flex line. Unless there is another part in between the flex lines on that year of truck...but my 88 and 96 were very similar so I don't see them doing anything fancy in 1994.

You can approach it a few ways...what I did on my last patch was to cut the line about half way (near center of the vehicle) and before bending it I slid the proper connector on with the proper flared end..this you need to be sure of though as it will affect the seal. This was done knowing already that I was going to do it that way from the start and not halfway through before I realized something wasn't right.

Flare types: Important!

Some are bubble flares and some are simple flares...if you have the end that came off the truck originally have a look at it and see what type of flare it is...if not certain, take it to the parts store and let them ID it.

Once you have that all sorted...you can do a simple flare on the center joint connector ends and just use one of those...but it involves flaring both ends of the cut line at the center...

Either that...or buy two shorter lines and a joint connector in the middle...test all parts to make sure they BOTH thread AND fit the type of joint connector. Simple flares work with the joint connectors I've used and I haven't seen any with bubble flares.

If you buy the two lines you may need to simply coil any extra line to make it fit better...I've done that myself a few times successfully...just don't try to coil it too tight or you can crimp the line...wrap it around something like a small bottle or beer can...depending on how much you have extra (remove the beer can and refresh yourself ...lol)

Flaring lines is not difficult...involves buying a flaring tool though...and getting a bit of practice doing the flares so they seal properly.

Since this appears to be your first brake repair I won't bog you down with excess information...but there is a few tricks you learn as you go...one of the first things is to make sure you buy the correct threads and lengths and all that...before you start...but I don't remember doing a job that did not require at least one extra trip to the parts store.

EDIT: and since this is a plow truck that won't see road use or excessive speeds...you can also consider getting a line plug and just seal off the passenger side...they are sold with brake parts...again, check the thread and seal to make sure you are not damaging anything in the connectors...they will not seal if you damage them.

 

[RonD]

Yes, +1

Stock Brake lines can have different threads on either end of one brake line.
Ford/Mazda may have had 100,000 SAE threaded flex lines for Rangers in 1994 when switching over to metric threads, so they used them up and just got 100,000 brake lines to match up SAE and metric.
When all the SAE flex lines were gone then both ends went metric.

I found that on my 1994 rear brake lines
You can get SAE to Metric adapter, or visa versa, just a short piece that adapts one to the other, male/male, male/female, female/female, whatever combo you need

 

[Mark_88]

Good point about the adapter Ron..


...it will make his life much easier if he can find one of those...lol

 

[E83]

Agreeg re adapter! Thabks for all the help folks. Off to the parts stores again this morning.

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[ericbphoto]

I use one of those "cross" shaped lug wrenches. They don't cost much and are easy to tuck in behind the seat. That way, if a lug nut cover comes off, I just turn the wrench to an end that fits. Also works well if you have to buy a replacement lug nut and get home to find out it takes a different size wrench than all the rest.

 

[Andy D]

When I repaired the frame, the rear line crumbled. I ended up replacing every hard line and the hoses in the front. I used a pair of diagonal cutters and a 6 point socket to remove the couplings.. I used line from a 25' roll and matched the couplings at Auto Zone. They must have been SAE. I bought a double flare tool. and followed the instructions carefully. You also need a tubing cutter and a small file. Or use pre- made lengths and couplings.

 

[E83]

Three steps ahead, two back. Brought the end of the rusted out line to a parts store where they sized the fitting and sold me four of them (I knew I would lose, strip or ruin atleast two). Then bought a flaring tool. Then made a small section of line with one sized fitting on one emd, the different size on the other then used a coupler go conmect the short piece to the new longer piece then to the flex line connector. Success!

Then I tried bleeding. Sigh.

Been soaking both bleeders with WD40 since I started this project. The drivers side opened up no problem. The passenger side rounded off and is not budging.

These old rust bucket trucks are like an onion. Finally get one layer peeled back and there is an infinate number of subsequent layers until you finally get it working.

Now to deal with drilling out a bleeder. Presumably I need a tap kit to replace it?

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[Mark_88]

The bleeder screws are soft metal (typically) and if you drill one size smaller than the thread (or two) you can get an ease~out in there and back it out without damaging the threads...usually.

Another method you can try is to simply grip the bleeder with vice grips or something similar (I've used large pliers) to try to twist it out. That may require dropping the caliper but they are easy enough to remove/install...usually don't even have to soak the bolts in penetrating oil...

You're on your way to master mechanic level with this one job...

If you do drill it out be extra careful not to get metal chunks inside the caliper...very hard on those things. I usually would try some heat first if you have a torch but if not try the smaller drill bit first...sometimes just the heat from the drill bit will loosen up the bleeder...but don't go too deep...you are getting into the seal on the bleeder and you don't want to damage that surface (it's just a honed cone surface the shape of the bleeder tip).

 

[E83]

I see a lot of people suggesting using a vice... I wonder if a properly sized socket rounded it off, what is the likelihood of a vice grip getting enough friction?

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[94tanner]

I see a lot of people suggesting using a vice... I wonder if a properly sized socket rounded it off, what is the likelihood of a vice grip getting enough friction?

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Pretty high actually, that's how I've always done it if the socket fails. Just get some big vice grips and really make the teeth dig in. Hit it with a torch then give it a shot.

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[E83]

That will be next on my list of stuff to try!

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