Transmission Inquiry / Request for assistance

[FordRangerFan777]

Looking through the forum I think I have correctly identified the correct transmission for my truck. I have a 2002 Mazda B4000 with a 5 speed. From my checking it seems I have a Mazda M50D-R1HD, is this correct? Is there a difference between the manual transmission on the Mazda vs. the Ranger (same engine)?

Second question, I'm pretty sure I need a new clutch. Is there a good write up / video on this process? I've never replaced a clutch before and would like to learn as much as I can (so I can get the right parts, etc.) in advance so hopefully it won't be as long of a job.

Third question, not necessarily related to the above questions, how durable are these transmissions? If I purchase a used one of these used, is there a way to determine if the transmission is good prior to putting it in a truck and using it? I'm considering tearing it apart but don't know anything about transmissions but have a willingness to learn. Thoughts?

**If these questions can all be answered by looking somewhere else or if this thread is in the wrong place. Please let me know and I'll delete and repost in the correct place.**

 

[rusty ol ranger]

1- Yes...you are correct on the trans type. There is no difference between a mazda and ranger trans

2- Biggest thing with replacing a clutch is making sure everythings lined up, and you replace all of it (dont just do a disc), and get the flywheel resurfaced or replace it. Im sure if you browse youtube theres videos that can explain it better then i can.

3- The M5OD is the strongest of the RBV 5speeds. It was also used in F150's behind the 300/302. The biggest failure point is leaky shift rail plugs

 

[Shran]

You are correct, M5OD-R1HD, no difference between Mazda & Ranger.

I'm sure there's a YouTube video or two out there... hardest parts are getting it past the exhaust and getting the slave cylinder bled. In addition to the clutch kit, you should replace the slave cylinder, potentially the shifter bushings if your shifter has any slop in it, and the rubber shift rail plugs with metal freeze plugs. Good time to pressure wash the transmission & degrease it. I would also recommend either a new flywheel or resurfacing the one you have. You can also replace the rear main seal on the engine while you have it apart... it is convenient... but if it's not leaking, it is probably OK to leave it alone.

What makes you think you need a new clutch though?

These transmissions are pretty durable for what they are. Keeping the fluid fresh and not leaking from the shift rail plugs is the main thing... low on fluid will kill one pretty quick. If you are looking for a used one, check the input shaft for slop, that is the #1 indicator of trouble in my mind - anything more than a tiny bit of lateral movement and ANY in-out movement is not good.

 

[FordRangerFan777]

Thanks for confirming and for the insight on replacing the clutch (including the components to get). I've been told there are a few different items to replace when you're doing a clutch - thanks for providing those and confirming what I've been told. I'll be sure to either replace or resurface the fly wheel.

I'm pretty sure I need a new clutch for a few reasons. When turned on and stationary (clutch depressed) I cannot easily put the shifter into any gear - unless the gears are already aligned. I.E. when driving and I'm slowing down, I ensure before stopping I get it into 1st. When the truck is off, I can normally get the shifter into a gear, sometimes I have to 'encourage it' to go into gear, though I've never been rough on it. When I bought the truck, it had a little issue going into 1st or reverse while it was turned on and stationary but over time it's gotten worse. (I think of it as theft deterrent. lol ... but I know I really need to address it. - Truck has ~ 250,000 miles on it and I believe original clutch. But until I get in there, I won't be sure.

Also, not sure if this is related but I've checked the fluid level and there's fluid in the reservoir and I checked the transmission itself (while truck was on level ground) and when I opened the fill cap, a little fluid came out. When I got the truck, drained and replaced the fluid in the transmission.

I definitely plan to replace the rear main seal while in there as I'm seeing a slow oil lead where the trans/engine mate so I'm pretty sure that's starting to go.

I didn't know these were in F150s behind a 300/302 - that's super encouraging/good to know! Reason I ask that question, at one point I plan to do a 4wd swap. I've acquired a used 4wd transmission (based on recommendations from a different much older post) and am wanting to use that trans but before I just shove swap out the trans, I want to make sure it's good or if I need to address anything. Depending on what I found messing around with the new-to-me trans, will determine if I swap the trans when I do the clutch & rear main seal jobs.

 

[FordRangerFan777]

One other thing as I consider clutch replacement, is there a thread that clutches are discussed? Or a resource that compares them? I searched and couldn't find one. I don't off road my truck, it's my daily but from time to time, I pull a trailer (total load 5,000-6,000 lbs. - I think doing this didn't help my clutch.

 

[Jim_Philly]

In case you need to replace any bearings, seals, etc:

M5R1 Bearing, Gasket and Seal Kit | Mazda B2300, B3000, B4000, Navajo, Aerostar, Bronco, Explorer, Sport Trac, Ranger

Keep your M5R1 transmission running smoothly. Get top-notch bearing, gasket & seal kit today. Shop now!

cobratransmission.com

If you need synchro rings, it's tricky because one of them (maybe 3rd gear?) is impossible to find for the HD because it's some 2-piece design. Been a while since I looked into it.

 

[FordRangerFan777]

This is legit! Thank you for the resources and info!!

 

[pjtoledo]

classic symptoms of failed pilot bearing.
bad bearing grabs the input shaft and keeps it rotating even when the clutch is depressed.

 

[FordRangerFan777]

classic symptoms of failed pilot bearing.
bad bearing grabs the input shaft and keeps it rotating even when the clutch is depressed.

I know so little about clutches it's not even funny. So this info is AMAZING! I've been wondering 'why' this has been happening. And now I know.

 

[RonD]

When doing the Ranger clutches use a Self Adjusting Pressure plate, a few dollars more but well worth it

Regular pressure plate here: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/9BoAAOSwB0xlVFJ1/s-l400.jpg

Self-adjusting pressure plate here: https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71NEFLgWNgL._AC_UF1000,1000_QL80_.jpg

See the 3 Yellow springs, that's the Self Adjusting part

Clutch discs start off Thick when new, and they slowly get thinner and thinner until they are worn out and start to slip, just how it works

With a regular pressure plate and a new disc, the clutch pedal has to be all the way down to the floor, and sometimes an inch more, lol, to disengage
And as the disc gets thinner, where the pedal disengages and engages moves up and up in the pedal travel until it slips

Self adjusting MOVES the PRESSURE PLATE as the disc gets thinner
So when disc is new the pedal only needs to go down an inch or so from the floor to disengage, and it stays that way for the life of the disc, still slips when it worn out, lol

 

[FordRangerFan777]

When doing the Ranger clutches use a Self Adjusting Pressure plate, a few dollars more but well worth it

Regular pressure plate here: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/9BoAAOSwB0xlVFJ1/s-l400.jpg

Self-adjusting pressure plate here: https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71NEFLgWNgL._AC_UF1000,1000_QL80_.jpg

See the 3 Yellow springs, that's the Self Adjusting part

Clutch discs start off Thick when new, and they slowly get thinner and thinner until they are worn out and start to slip, just how it works

With a regular pressure plate and a new disc, the clutch pedal has to be all the way down to the floor, and sometimes an inch more, lol, to disengage
And as the disc gets thinner, where the pedal disengages and engages moves up and up in the pedal travel until it slips

Self adjusting MOVES the PRESSURE PLATE as the disc gets thinner
So when disc is new the pedal only needs to go down an inch or so from the floor to disengage, and it stays that way for the life of the disc, still slips when it worn out, lol

Thanks for the info!! I looked at the pictures and see what you're talking about. Is there a better brand of clutch to get for a self adjusting pressure plate?

 

[sgtsandman]

Thanks for the info!! I looked at the pictures and see what you're talking about. Is there a better brand of clutch to get for a self adjusting pressure plate?

The general consensus is LUK or OEM is the best overall choice.

 

[FordRangerFan777]

Thank you! Would that be just for the adjusting pressure plate? Or for the entire clutch and associated components (I.E. slave cylinder, fly wheel, etc.) as well?

 

[RonD]

Yes, +1 on LUK, I think they were the first to "invent" SAC(self adjusting clutch)
Up until 1980s clutches could be externally adjusted, so SAC was not a big deal
When clutch slaves were moved inside the bell housing in the mid-1980s then SAC became a big deal, in my opinion

Many car makers use LUK clutch parts, including Ford, as OEM

 

[FordRangerFan777]

Yes, +1 on LUK, I think they were the first to "invent" SAC(self adjusting clutch)
Up until 1980s clutches could be externally adjusted, so SAC was not a big deal
When clutch slaves were moved inside the bell housing in the mid-1980s then SAC became a big deal, in my opinion

Many car makers use LUK clutch parts, including Ford, as OEM

Good info! If LUK is used by Ford, as OEM, does that mean I can order Motorcraft? Or would it be better to order with brand name LUK?