1995 ford ranger 4x4 leaf springs and hanger

[mickE]

I purchased a 4in lift kit for my 1995 ford ranger 4x4 and they seem to be too short in the rear where the hanger and leaf spring meet. Am I supposed to change my rear hangers or adjust to get rough county leaf springs to connect?? I have the front bolted on but the rear bushing will not connect with rear hanger. I am sure it is the right kit but the dealer told me that the small bushing is supposed to connect to the front hanger but it only fit pointing to the back. I am confused help please...mickE

 

[Uncle Gump]

Between the spring hanger and the spring should be a shackle... you do have the shackle right?

Pictures of what you have would probably help visualize whats going on.

EDIT... judging by the year of your truck and your location... I would take a serious look at the spring hangers on the truck. It's pretty common for the hangers to rust and fail. Now would be the time to replace them if they are at all questionable. Replacement parts are pretty cheap and worth the effort to replace them if they are at all questionable.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

The hanger is riveted onto the frame from the factory, replacements are bolted. The shackle pivots on that. They can rust and seize so they don't move. With age it is much easier to just grind four rivets and replace the whole works than deal with getting that bolt out.

 

[mickE]

Between the spring hanger and the spring should be a shackle... you do have the shackle right?

Pictures of what you have would probably help visualize whats going on.

EDIT... judging by the year of your truck and your location... I would take a serious look at the spring hangers on the truck. It's pretty common for the hangers to rust and fail. Now would be the time to replace them if they are at all questionable. Replacement parts are pretty cheap and worth the effort to replace them if they are at all questionable.

Between the spring hanger and the spring should be a shackle... you do have the shackle right?

Pictures of what you have would probably help visualize whats going on.

EDIT... judging by the year of your truck and your location... I would take a serious look at the spring hangers on the truck. It's pretty common for the hangers to rust and fail. Now would be the time to replace them if they are at all questionable. Replacement parts are pretty cheap and worth the effort to replace them if they are at all questionable.

OK>>>this is what I got. The springs are right for this vehicle as I have verified 3 times with part #8031 rough country 4" lift front and back with leaf springs. As you can view the second pic is the best showing that the leaf springs and shackles are 4-5" too short. Does that bottom shackle that connects to the rear leaf bushing move forward or does it have to be perpendicular straight above bushing?

 

[mickE]

The hanger is riveted onto the frame from the factory, replacements are bolted. The shackle pivots on that. They can rust and seize so they don't move. With age it is much easier to just grind four rivets and replace the whole works than deal with getting that bolt out.

My leaf spring bushing for the rear is 4-5" too short to connect to the hanger pivot. I did notice that the pivot will not move at all. Please see my photos.

 

[mickE]

Do I put pressure on the spring which is attached on the front and centered properly on the middle bolt to get the extra 4-5"in I need or do I replace hangers? BTY the hangers are stuck in place and will not move forward. Another question would be do these hangers have to be directly centered above the rear leaf spring bushing or can they be moved forward for connection to bushing?

 

[mickE]

The hanger is riveted onto the frame from the factory, replacements are bolted. The shackle pivots on that. They can rust and seize so they don't move. With age it is much easier to just grind four rivets and replace the whole works than deal with getting that bolt out.

This is the position that my hanger is in and it will not move forward with the old springs off. I was told that to make these springs fit it may take two people but it still seems alittle too wide of a connection between the hanger and the rear leaf spring bushing. I am wondering if there is supposed to be play in the hanger pivot cause mine will not budge.

 

[MikeG]

Uh.... you do know the shackle is supposed to rotate around the bolt that holds it to the spring hanger, right?????

 

[Bgunner]

OK the shackle, the actual place the bolt goes through is supposed to swing towards the spring if this does not move at all it is seized and needs to be freed up, try loosening the next bolt up to be able to swing it towards the spring. These are usually set to 65-87 ft.lbs. of torque. So not all that tight. The bolt has seized inside the shackle itself most likely by loosening it will allow it so swing forwards to attach it. once attached torque it to the given amount and be done.

last year I replaced my springs and anti-seized the bolts to try to prevent this issue. They also make bolts that have zerk fittings so they can be greased to prevent squeaks and seizing.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

They should swing freely and lean to back at rest... about like they are now. I question if you have the right springs, I don't think you will get enough spring travel to get the shackle to rotate back to where it is supposed to be.

Here are some measurements for a Ranger spring if you can extrapolate an eye to eye measurement from that:

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You can try to save the shackle, or you can just save yourself 7.3 days of agony, grind 8 rivets off and spend $120+/- plus shipping and replace the hangers and shackles. The bolt might not be that tight but there is just a tab on the nut to keep it from spinning and you cant get at it without removing the bed.

It will amaze you how much better it will ride when the shackles move like they are supposed to.

 

[MikeG]

There is some pretty severe rust cancer on the frame. Just a thought, maybe someone moved the spring hanger(s) due to that. They should be riveted, some of the pics look like the spring hangers are bolted on.........

 

[Bgunner]

They should swing freely and lean to back at rest... about like they are now. I question if you have the right springs, I don't think you will get enough spring travel to get the shackle to rotate back to where it is supposed to be.

Here are some measurements for a Ranger spring if you can extrapolate an eye to eye measurement from that:

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You can try to save the shackle, or you can just save yourself 7.3 days of agony, grind 8 rivets off and spend $120+/- plus shipping and replace the hangers and shackles. The bolt might not be that tight but there is just a tab on the nut to keep it from spinning and you cant get at it without removing the bed.

It will amaze you how much better it will ride when the shackles move like they are supposed to.

actually if you look at his pictures his hangers have already have been replaced so simple unbolting but are in good shape still with ho real scale. Since those have been replaced the nut for the shackle has been replaced also with the standard nut where a wrench will be required to hold it. An impact swivel socket and an extension with an impact will allow for easy-ish removal of the shackle bolt. If not double wrench the nut and breaker bar the bolt head, outer side. I believe my factory's were bolt to the inside but it is just to cold out to check at the moment to be sure, where as the springs for sure were bolt towards the frame and nut on the outside.

 

[mickE]

OK the shackle, the actual place the bolt goes through is supposed to swing towards the spring if this does not move at all it is seized and needs to be freed up, try loosening the next bolt up to be able to swing it towards the spring. These are usually set to 65-87 ft.lbs. of torque. So not all that tight. The bolt has seized inside the shackle itself most likely by loosening it will allow it so swing forwards to attach it. once attached torque it to the given amount and be done.

last year I replaced my springs and anti-seized the bolts to try to prevent this issue. They also make bolts that have zerk fittings so they can be greased to prevent squeaks and seizing.

That is great info....this helps me tremendously as i will be on this job tomorrow morning.

 

[mickE]

actually if you look at his pictures his hangers have already have been replaced so simple unbolting but are in good shape still with ho real scale. Since those have been replaced the nut for the shackle has been replaced also with the standard nut where a wrench will be required to hold it. An impact swivel socket and an extension with an impact will allow for easy-ish removal of the shackle bolt. If not double wrench the nut and breaker bar the bolt head, outer side. I believe my factory's were bolt to the inside but it is just to cold out to check at the moment to be sure, where as the springs for sure were bolt towards the frame and nut on the outside.

Yes...this is also great news. I thought that the springs were too short but i checked them over and called on them. I am going to remove these hangers and clean them, oil/grease them, and put new bolts. I am sure that this is the issue...thank you. The thing I was worried about is that when these shackles pivot forward they will be at a weird angle not supported directly above from rear bushing.

 

[mickE]

Uh.... you do know the shackle is supposed to rotate around the bolt that holds it to the spring hanger, right?????

Yes....but its stuck in the position it is in. I decided to remove the hanger, clean, oil/grease pivot now that I have a better idea and am sure I have the right leaf springs. Thanks for the help