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1999 Expo O2 Questions


mnewman

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I just got a '99 V8 AWD explorer to donate it's drivetrain to my '03 ranger with a locked up 4.0. Anyway after I started digging into it... It's not bad. Rusty but not bad. It was a theft recovery so I sent the ECM out for a PATS delete (key switch is buggered & no keys) then threw a fuel pump at it and it fired right up. Only a leak in the high pressure power steering hose is keeping me from actually driving it more than 10 minutes. Anyway as part of the theft the they cut the cats out along with the O2 sensor(s) in that area.

My question is how many O2 sensors where behind the CATs? and will it run ok if I get a o2 sensor installed in the patched exhaust without CATs? If I'm not running CATs do I even need those sensors? I know it will throw a CEL without them. It does seem to randomly stumble under a load but I think that might just be the old gas.
 


franklin2

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The first set of O2 sensors trim the fuel for the engine. The O2 sensors after the cats monitor the cat efficiency. They are emissions only, but certain areas with more stringent inspections require the check engine light to be off and the ECM to have run a full drive cycle. In other words, you cannot clear the code and then drive in and get it passed without it completing it's tests. If you don't need inspections and are not worried about the light, you do not need to worry about the after cat O2 sensors.

My Tahoe has this error code. I think it's cat is wore out, I have replaced everything else. But my inspection place doesn't look to close at anything, so I just clear the light and drive it in.
 

mnewman

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That's fantastic news. Thanks!
 

scotts90ranger

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They run pretty rich and grumbly when you first get them going after putting a battery in until they run long enough to learn the fuel trims from the front O2 sensors, I have two V8 Explorers and they both do the same thing (dang battery drains, happens all the time, I might have too many rigs...)

But yeah, what was said above... the cat monitor sensors only monitor the front cats too, if they took the cats you have all sorts of room for activities under there! there's so much exhaust stuff under there between the 4 cats, giant muffler and resonator...
 

mnewman

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One more question. This unit is AWD and the ABS light is on, does that disable the AWD system as well?
 

scotts90ranger

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Nope, the AWD transfer case is just a dumb viscous coupler, it knows absolutely nothing about what is going on, they're a cute little unit, like 20 pounds... Depending if you want 4x4 in your '03 you could get a transfer case out of a '97-03 F150 and some Expedition driveshafts to make the swap, you need the front shaft from a 4.6L Expedition or F150 and the rear shaft from a 5.4L Expedition and one 1330 to 1350 conversion U joint for the front axle...
 

mnewman

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Definitely want to keep the Ranger 4x4. I'd love to SAS it and go 35s after the V8 swap someday. I heard there was an adapter I could buy to re-use the ranger tcase but the f150 tcase sounds like a better option. You just saved me a ton of research!!
 

scotts90ranger

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I'm not sure what rear shaft you might need in a Ranger, the expedition shaft thing is for V8 Explorers...

Yeah, those 4406 T cases fit good, in the sploder you have to trim the front gas tank bracket a little but they fit fine, they're the smallest offset of the full size transmission T cases other than a 205 but with a lower low range...
 

mnewman

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Ok, noted. It's too bad this thing is so rusty or I might go that route instead of swapping the Ranger.

I am changing the hard lines on the power steering rack. Man, what a pain. I got the bad one off but I surely couldn't figure out how to tighten the one side last night. I'll have to try again Sunday when I have more time. If the cooler wasn't there I could get to it but I think I'd have issues tightening the the cooler lines after the pressure lines are on. Good times.
 

scotts90ranger

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Yeah, it's tight in there, I just rebuilt the engine in my '00 and put on OBX headers, that was an experience... It's annoying to be able to see so much when you can't touch it...
 

mnewman

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I've been driving this thing around for the past week. I really like it. Fixed a few more little things such as the driver door panel, got a matching door lock cylinder and ignition, replaced the door key pad, blend door actuator and cleaned the crap out of it. I attempted to fix the power supply for the radio display but I think one of the chips actually is bad and isn't just bad solder joints; the factory sub is super blown up but not something I'm worried about. Driver's window regulator is hosed but I managed to get it back in the track and closed. Unplugged the motor so we'll call that expertly fixed. Really cut down the wind-noise. Nice.

First on-going bigger issue is an apparent mis-communication between myself and the mechanic so the bank2 o2 sensor bung that was cutout got added to bank1... Good grief, seems like a logical ask on my part but I guess not. Seems to run ok so I'm not sure I really want to worry about it.

Second is the ignition is really hard to turn. I took the column apart as much I could without separating the two pieces were it tilts. I cleaned the plastic slider thing and put new grease on it. Is that even replaceable? The cylinder turns fine and the switch itself slides ok. Not sure what else to do. It's better but it concerns me that it's going to break the key cylinder. I might go to the salvage yard this weekend and pick up a new column but I really don't want to. If anyone has a suggestion I'd love to hear it.

Couple of pics of the rig.

Pre-clean (wheels & tires off my '03 Ranger):
20231107_121553.jpg


After some simple green and a pressure washer. Did not hand wash it:
20231108_183711.jpg


And Handsome-Dave but you can see the interior is actually in good shape. It was leaking water due to crap in the sunroof and rear hatch. Hopefully the smell fades. It's been wiped down and a super quick shampoo. Has an after market pad in the cargo area which is pretty nice. The dogs are loving that they can stick their snouts on my shoulder :
20231114_172012.jpg
 
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scotts90ranger

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They're probably used to GM where bank 1 is the drivers side on I'm pretty sure all of their engines...

I can't help on the ignition cylinder, my pile has always worked fine... be careful with trying to swap columns, the sensor for the PATS system is apparently around the lock cylinder, don't know how married those are, I pay just enough attention to know that I don't like having PATS for my uses...

That's a decent looking rig, I like driving them around, I daily drove mine from '17 through around December of '19 and put 50k miles on it, 16mpg was tolerable with the gas prices of the time...
 

mnewman

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Ah, I don't work on anything but Fords so the thought of getting the banks mixed up never occurred to me. Good point. Glad you mentioned 16MPG. That's about where this is at so I'm not sure moving the o2 is worth it other that it's "wrong" and tickles my OCD tendencies. I was thinking it might be worth it if I could squeeze one or two more MPGs out of it.

I had the PATS deleted. I figured I could make it work but the effort of researching, finding, pulling and testing parts vastly outweighed the $125 fee for the deleting the PATS. The only downfall so far with this method is the annoying theft light and it won't lock from a key FOB.
 

scotts90ranger

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Mine was pretty tired when I was driving it but still had good power and everything, I freshened it up some a couple months ago and now it is in the mid 17's but that's with headers and a mild cam...
 

bobbywalter

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maybe the module was damaged during the theft.



1. Turn ignition from OFF to RUN 8 times within 10 seconds, with the 8th time ending in RUN. Door locks will cycle to confirm programming mode.

2. Within 20 seconds press any button on first keyless remote. Door locks will cycle to confirm programming.

3. Within 20 seconds, press any button on second keyless remote. Door locks will cycle again to confirm programming.

4. Turn ignition to OFF. Locks will again cycle to indicate end of programming mode.







did you try that method? have had no issues with the pats delete on that model in regards to fob. generally when you send the pcm in for a delete many have a seperate base tune capacity set up for engine swaps....this mitigates things like secondary 02 install ect...
 

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