1999 Ranger XLT will not start....DPFE

[SRD]

Hello. I have a 1999 XLT Super Cab 3.0 v6 Ranger. Check Engine light says following Codes:

p1401
p1120
p0455
p0122

I am having trouble getting the check engine light off and troubleshooting the issue.

First, I bought a TPS Sensor to replace per the p1120 code.

The TPS sensor had a striped screw so it is hard to remove. I used a small ratchet with screw tip but no luck. Never did break for me.

So, I put back on my DPFE sensor and now truck will not start. It wants to start, sounds like it wants to fully start but no go.....cranks but will not turn over.

Any ideas on what I did wrong or what happened is appreciated as I am just a self repair DYI guy not a real mechanic........All I did was remove the DPFE which is two bolts and put it back on...

I appreciate any ideas.....

Thanks.

 

[superj]

Welcome!!

No idea here unless something with the wire harness came unplugged accidentally near there

 

[RonD]

You have these memorized of course, I don't, lol
P0122 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Low Input
P0455 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (gross leak)

P1120 Throttle Position Sensor out of range
P1401 Diff Pressure Feedback EGR Circuit High Input

None of the codes should cause a No Start

DPFE sensor is hooked to exhaust so can't cause a No Start
However.............If the EGR valve was stuck OPEN that would cause a slow start and then a stall and/or very rough idling
EGR system sends small amounts of exhaust into the intake, but only when engine is under a load, and never when engine is cold
But there is no exhaust when engine is not running, of course, so no exhaust to get sucked in on start up, but it would be a major Vacuum Leak if EGR Valve was stuck open, which would make it hard to start

Unplug the TPS sensor and see if it starts, TPS can disable fuel injectors if its shorted internally

If you have a cordless reversible drill, then get a few Reverse Drill bits matching the size of the other TPS screw, the one that does come out
Reverse drilling will usually cause a screw or bolt to start to unscrew, if not then you can use an EZE-out once the hole is drilled

Regular drilling causes screw/bolt to get tighter

Do the 50/50 test
Spray fuel into the engine
Try to start
If it starts, runs and dies you have a fuel delivery problem
If it doesn't start then a spark(or compression) problem
50/50 instant results, no guessing

 

[SRD]

Hello. Thanks for the reply.


I was able to remove the bolt and replace the TPS sensor and I also replaced the DPFE just incase. Still same issue. Tries to start but won’t turn over......Did another Code test got same 4 codes nothing changed.

it started fine until I took off the DPFE and put it back on…..I did not really even do anything it just come right off. Not sure what I could have done...I checked hoses and plugs all seem tight and fine....

Thanks for the guidance!
SRD

 

[Josh B]

I;d give it the starting fluid one time and see if it will straight itself up with some help

 

[RonD]

It's nothing related to DPFE sensor
And unless you unplugged the coil pack, the cam sensor, or all 6 injectors while replacing the DPFE there is no relationship
Or the codes

Do 50/50 test to see where to go next

 

[SRD]

Ok. I sprayed starter fluid in the engine. Nothing. Exact same sound and everything never did anything.

I took off hose and opened flute and sprayed like 4 sprays in engine.

I am not sure why none of the engine lights or codes went off when I repalced the DPFE or TPS sensor.

Just tries to start heavy but never turns over.

Thanks for the help.
SRD

 

[pjtoledo]

pull a spark plug out and lay it on top of the intake. look for sparking while cranking.

do not use starter fluid to, ah, amplify, the spark.

 

[Josh B]

I'm beginning to wonder if you may have inadvertently (a new word I just learned how to use! ) pulled a "run" wire loose somehow (a word I'll Never learn how to use ) while messing around with stuff there, especially maybe around the coil or fuse box, anywhere you've been tinkering
All I can think to suggest here man :/

 

[SRD]

Thanks for the replies. Ok, I have cheked the following and still the truck cranks but no start. I am thinking some kind of electrical issue or wire got disturbed but am not sure where to go from here.

1. Fuel pump is good and relays are good.
2. No Spark now.
3. No pressure in fuel rail.....
4. Took off battery for a while put back on. Nothing same issue. Same Codes

Thanks for the direction.
SRD

 

[RonD]

Does the CEL(check engine light) come on with key on?
If not computer is OFF, so no spark and no fuel

Does the CEL go off when cranking the engine?
If it stays on then no signal from crank sensor

Does the THEFT light on the dash flash every 3seconds with key off?
If not the bulb is burned out, so there would be no way to tell if you have a PATS issue
But.............starter motor should not work if that was the case, it would also start by adding fuel manually, but stall when you stopped adding fuel

 

[SRD]

Hello. Thank you for the reply.

1. The CEL does come on with the key and you can still retrieve codes etc. No Crank sensor codes show up and have had no intermitten issues to date, started and ran perfect before this abrupt issue.

2. The CEL goes very faint and so do other dash lights; when cranking you see very faint light flicker very dim in line with each crank.

3. The PATS is OK I think...Bulb blinks fine etc....

4. Spraying Starter Fluid directly to the engine through throttle body flute still nothing same sound issue.

5. Still lost...lol. What is a "Run Wire?" and where are they on a 199 ranger?

Could it be some kind of ground?

 

[RonD]

Does the CEL go OFF when cranking?

If its just dim then computer is not getting a crank sensor signal, there would be no code for that on start up because computer is not connected to starter motor activation, in other words it has no idea you want to start the engine until it sees a crank sensor timing pulse, so it can't set a code because nothing is wrong

Computer just thinks you are happily listening to the radio with key on

Unplug and plug back in crank sensor connector

 

[SRD]

Mr. Ron D....YOUR THE MAN! I unplugged the crank shaft sensor plugged it back in and ...VROOOOM! Started right up like a champ!

Should I get a new crank shaft sensor?

Thanks again!
SRD

 

[RonD]

No, but check the connector/wires when you get a chance