96 4.0 Explorer XLT 4x4 Getting it back on the road

[Bgunner]

You may want to consider an oil catch can for the PCV system. It looks as though lots of oil is making its way back into the manifold. This may also help wit h it running in the end but will mainly stop the buildup inside the intake that yours seems to be getting.

 

[Josh B]

I got a few things done today, but not nearly enough, still worked till a couple hours after dark using a drop light

The fuel injectors were real rascals to get out, wound up using two large screwdrivers to pry and twist them out

Wanted to give the injectors a good soak so I made a creative little parts washer using an old butter bowl and some gas, thinking about a pump and some lights, patents and stuff

Let those soak for a few hours while attempting to remove some of the carbon build-up from the intakes, and clean off the gasket mating surfaces on everything, that's what took most of the day

Managed to replace the lower intake and fuel rail before calling it a day. Hoping the remaining re-assembly won't bring any surprises, really wanting to get out tomorrow

 

[Josh B]

Spent today trying to wrap it up, stayed fairly busy much longer than had anticipated.

It went fairly well apart from the usual frustrations with working on a vehicle.

Had been hoping for early afternoon, worked till well after dark

Had to back up and reroute wires and hoses and such a half dozen times or more, but thankfully didn't require removing any major components to correct.

And when I got done only had one wire left over! It was a single wire, type that's pushed onto a stud like connection.

Then before starting it added the coolant, it flowed in so very smoothly, and fast! I could plumb hear it swooshing on through there! Then I stopped, got the flashlight, and looked underneath, almost a gallon of coolant had drained into the driveway :/

Intentionally left the belt off so I could see how it sounded.

It started right up, and sounded ok, except for the knocking from the engine
It had been sitting there for almost a week.
That only lasted about 10 or 15 seconds then quit tapping, and sounded much better, except for the air sound :/
Discovered the loose wire goes to the oil pressure gauge, all I gotta do is figure out where that was

I guess in addition to one loose wire there must also be one loose vacuum line, but I couldn't find my rubber hose :/

Then I drove over into TX side to get some things, a 50+ mile trip.
It's doing considerably better in comparison to how bad it was. Set the cruise at 70 and it still downshifts quite often even on mild inclines, but doesn't backfire while doing so hardly at all, and not nearly as strong.
Also still seems to be guzzling the gas quite rapidly, been studying into EGR valves and something else I've done forgot, another emmission valve I suppose.
Also studied into the catch cans (thanks PetroleumJunkie for your thread on those)

Going to take a 120 mile trip in the morning and see the family, missed it Thanksgiving

 

[Bgunner]

Aye, next time the motor sits that long without starting, or you tear it apart, after turning the key to the on position push the gas peddle to the floor, I mean push it down, then crank it over, I count to 10 then release both peddle and key then start. This, as long as the throttle cable isn't stretched, should shut the gas off and allow the oil pump to pump oil though out the motor an limit how long the top end goes without oil. No more dangerous ticking because of a starved top end.

 

[Josh B]

Thanks for that info Bgunner, it really caught me off guard.

When I first went to look at it, had been sitting quite a while. The battery was dead and they said they could hook up a charger and maybe get it started, I asked them not to bother, I had a new battery in my truck and would just bring it(I really didn't want it messed with anyway before I got there to check it out)
It started right up and didn't make any noises at all, just a smooth running engine. I was mostly interested in the engine bacuse it matched the one in my truck, bought it on the spot

 

[Bgunner]

The first time I heard my 3.0 tap because it was below 0°F it caught me off guard too then remembered RonD mentioning that he did this when cold and sure enough it works. I have done this ever since when it gets below 32°F here just for reassurance I can keep this motor as long as possible without needing a rebuild or replacement., starters in comparison and cheap and easy to install. Just the other day we were at -3° F and I did this with a count to 10, not compression strokes but a nice slow 10 second count, and no tapping at all so it positively works, not that I doubted RonD's suggestion.

 

[bobbywalter]

did you watch the injectors? when the intake is off you can re-install them with the fuel line re-routed out the side and strobe them one at a time with a connector from the junk yard or napa. if they are dripping or spraying improperly you know you need fresh units.

cranking/rolling the engine and watching for valve stick and travel along with a leak down with it apart is ideal as well....

 

[Josh B]

Hello Bobby! You must be a very busy man these days, good to see ya
I'm mostly concentrating atm on getting that shift cable adjusted. Almost had it apart the other day and ran out of time, hoping to get it done this week, weather permitting. It's causing problems I really don't need.

I'll be on a monthly basis in the future, but at least made it to see the family on Christmas, plumb missed it Thanksgiving due to the tranny acting up so bad, but that's kind of smoothed up somehow, think it's due to learning how to make it go. Got to be under pressure or coasting (I've about stopped using the cruise, it's a bit too aggressive on it.

I still have a fuel rail gasket and set of plenum rings in case I need to tear that down again. And a can of seafoam I'm looking for best opportunity to dispense, and after it goes through a while, a can of intake spray, to try and clean the gunk out.

Was thinking today maybe concentrate on the engine(other than getting the linkage in the column adjusted) and look at swapping engine to the Ranger.

Either way, I'm still just shooting in the dark, but somehow, maybe, can make a vehicle out of something somehow

I hope you're having a good holidays there

 

[Josh B]

did you watch the injectors? when the intake is off you can re-install them with the fuel line re-routed out the side and strobe them one at a time with a connector from the junk yard or napa. if they are dripping or spraying improperly you know you need fresh units.

cranking/rolling the engine and watching for valve stick and travel along with a leak down with it apart is ideal as well....

I wondered about trying to find some injectors from the graveyard and see if they're in better condition than the ones that's there(even though I'm not certain the ones I have are really too bad)

 

[Josh B]

The transmission is sounding like a rattle trap, thinking I'll need to find a replacement soon, maybe make it to the junkyard and look around. Also thinking about dropping pans and valve bodies hoping one looks better than the other.

And cutting the filter on a 4R55E transmission to see how it looks?? Some of you guys talk about cutting filters, how much can that tell about a transmission you know nothing else about?

Any suggestions be greatly appreciated

 

[4.0blue98]

Not a transmission expert by any means but really isn't a filter in these trannys. It's really just a big screen to catch big chunks. See if anything is stuck to the screen and look for chunks in the bottom of the pan and on the magnet. If the clutch material is gone it'd be slipping and then the fluid will probably look pretty dirty and maybe shimmer a bit. If the fluid is burnt it'll smell different from the fresh stuff. I'd be concerned about rattling too. Slipping is one thing but rattles sound like something broke.

 

[Josh B]

Not a transmission expert by any means but really isn't a filter in these trannys. It's really just a big screen to catch big chunks. See if anything is stuck to the screen and look for chunks in the bottom of the pan and on the magnet. If the clutch material is gone it'd be slipping and then the fluid will probably look pretty dirty and maybe shimmer a bit. If the fluid is burnt it'll smell different from the fresh stuff. I'd be concerned about rattling too. Slipping is one thing but rattles sound like something broke.

It's pretty bad at start-up and idling, but under load and pump pressure builds up it's pretty smooth at highway speeds.
Planning a trip to pick n pay tomorrow or wednesday see if I can find anything that seems to show any promise at all.
Maybe leapfrog em for awhile until I can get one going

 

[Josh B]

I've fallen behind a bit on posting on here.
Went in under the dash late last week and again today, still haven't got the shift linkage adjusted properly
This was late last week and I thought I was still far from the shift cable, didn't realize I was looking right at it :/ but I did pay special attention to the "creative" wiring someone did on it. Appears to be where they tied in an amp or sound system, the wires in that black box appear to be mostly speaker wires. All the good I can see they did was at least they didn't blow the door speakers :/

And here's where I was right at the shift cable adjuster and didn't know it, adHd is a wonderful thing

Today I got in again to adjust it but it wouldn't turn, I probly broke it somehow trying :/ but found a fix by searching the tech section

Adjust/Repair Instrument Cluster Gear Indicator - The Ranger Station

Original Poster: Slim Difficulty: 4 out of 10 (but this really depends on your idea of “difficult”) Time to install: 15 minutes – 1 hour Disclaimer: The Ranger Station.com, The Ranger Station.com Staff, nor the original poster are responsible for you doing this modification … Continued

www.therangerstation.com

and here's my repaired cable adjuster
Along w/ more of their "creative" wiring :/

And something else I probly broke
Think it's a grounding thing for the ignition switch

Anyhow, I now have three distinct clicks on the shifter (and it goes no farther either way)
Reverse, Neutral, annnd Drive. Even though I also attempted to adjust the cable at the transmission in the procedure, but had no idea which end to work it from etc
The emergency brake isn't working either
I'm studying into its' repair but haven't found any really intelligible information in doing that, and I've never had rear discs w/ EB setup before

PS I did just find the rear disc brakes in my Chiltons and Haynes, funny, there's hardly nothing on the "ford" CD ( I really think it is a backyard knock-off or something) has very few diagrams or pictures, can't see how they managed to advertise it using a FORD logo on the ad, the CD itself has no no Ford brands on it anywhere and no reference to Ford in it's credits

 

[snoranger]

In the first pic... That looks like an aftermarket alarm, not part of a sound system.

Second pic... That’s the shift indicator adjuster. All that does is move the PRNDL indicator. It has no effect on the actual shifting of the trans.
Dig a little deeper and make sure all the bolts are there and tight on the shift tube.

Fu(k that black wire at the ign tumbler... that’s just for the “you left the key in the ign” chime.

 

[Josh B]

Last week I put a can of Seafoam in the tank and it's getting towards empty, so yesterday I pulled the belt to look for vacuum leaks and while the fan wasn't blowing hooked up a can of Seafoam spray to the intake. Cut most of the nozzle tube that carries it into the chamber because I wanted it to also hit the IAC gate and mix well before being halfway through the chamber, held the throttle at about 2 or 2.5 K. Guess I only used about half the can but even the IAC gate looks a hek of a lot cleaner, it even smoothed up the rough running engine a good bit.

Also pulled some codes before taking it apart today
P0113 Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input
P0715 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0174 System too Lean (Bank 2)