AC clutch stays engaged


AntTim04

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I have a 96 ranger 4cyl manual. my ac clutch stays engaged only when in max ac or just ac. recently changed the ac compressor with clutch, dryer, orfice tube, and clutch cycle switch( attached to the dryer).
if i keep it running you can start to smell a burning rubber smell but the belt looks fine. when the truck is running in max ac I disconnected the clutch sensor and the clutch disengages. i just had it completely drained and recharged. is this new compressor locked up?
 


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Denisefwd93

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Just a note... you make posts, people try to help and you almost never respond.

Did you drain the oil out of the receiver? Did you add mfg's required amount of oil to the new comp? Did you use a vac pump? Is the belt on for the correct rotation direction of the compressor? Over charged, air, too much oil, too little oil, may cause overload seizing, belt or clutch to slip or even a bad tension pulley
 
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AntTim04

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I asked the shop to add the oil to it I believeit takes 7 ounces but I don't know if they drained and refilled it or not. I'd have to call and see if the shop vacuumed it or not but being a shop I assumed thru did considering I had a leak at the high pressure port. I'll check the belt rotation but I'm almost positive it's on correctly I'll haveto get back toyou on that.
 

AntTim04

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Just a note... you make posts, people try to help and you almost never respond.

Did you drain the oil out of the receiver? Did you add mfg's required amount of oil to the new comp? Did you use a vac pump? Is the belt on for the correct rotation direction of the compressor? Over charged, air, too much oil, too little oil, may cause overload seizing, belt or clutch to slip or even a bad tension pulley
Side note....
it did run for about 2-3 days not constantly it had rained a bit so it was cool out. so iI you not run it very muchat all
 

Denisefwd93

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Re- reading your other posts I have to say, you shouldn't be having so much trouble.
Auto air conditioning is not like home air conditioning there are many variables and they're always changing,. Engine speed, temperature, fan speed,.
basically it will run continuously if it's really hot out and the system is charge properly. If it's hot outside the truck and as it gets cooler in the truck it may start cycling even though the switch on the panel is still on AC or Max,. Also the compressor runs when it's in defrost for the windshield because it removes humidity faster than heat removes it.

When it is not hot out and the air conditioning is on the compressor will most likely go on and off according to the needs of the low pressure control.
 
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AntTim04

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Re- reading your other posts I have to say, you shouldn't be having so much trouble.
could that clutch cycle sensor be bad it is from oreilys and I know their electrical parts go bad a lot?
 

Craig0320

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Just because it is a new part doesn't mean it can't be bad. I have bought several components over the years that were no good right out of the box.
 

Denisefwd93

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The clutch cycle switch is actually a low pressure switch that's how these systems are controlled . I think some of the GM systems on the more luxurious cars, the compressor runs all the time and other controls affect the cabin temperature and operation of the system.

If your system is giving you 15 or 20 degrees colder than the air in the cab, and the evaporator line before the accumulator is cold and sweating it's generally working right without getting into thermometers and gauges.
 

AntTim04

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The clutch cycle switch is actually a low pressure switch that's how these systems are controlled . I think some of the GM systems on the more luxurious cars, the compressor runs all the time and other controls affect the cabin temperature and operation of the system.

If your system is giving you 15 or 20 degrees colder than the air in the cab, and the evaporator line before the accumulator is cold and sweating it's generally working right without getting into thermometers and gauges.
before it stayed on constantly when in idle it was cycling on and off as it should. I noticed thar it was stuckon when I was driving and I heard a screeching sound and started to smell, what seemed like, the belt. since then the clutch doesn't cycle at all just stays engaged not even on a cool morning start up. I may just go ahead and order a motor craft cycle switch and see what happens. kinda at a loss at this point. except digging back into the system double checking everything
 

Denisefwd93

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before it stayed on constantly when in idle it was cycling on and off as it should. I noticed thar it was stuckon when I was driving and I heard a screeching sound and started to smell, what seemed like, the belt. since then the clutch doesn't cycle at all just stays engaged not even on a cool morning start up. I may just go ahead and order a motor craft cycle switch and see what happens. kinda at a loss at this point. except digging back into the system double checking everything
The compressor not turning would still receive the signal on the clutch to go on, if the clutch is engaged and the compressor can't turn there's a good chance the belt is slipping something's definitely not right.
can you turn the compressor by hand?
 

AntTim04

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The compressor not turning would still receive the signal on the clutch to go on, if the clutch is engaged and the compressor can't turn there's a good chance the belt is slipping something's definitely not right.
can you turn the compressor by hand?
the compressor is definitely turning but after about 20 seconds of being turnedon it is almost too hot to touch
 

Denisefwd93

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stock, may get leveling springs in front "somday"
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I don't know what's going on! you have a new compressor and had a professional recharge the system for you. Compressors do get hot unless they're charged so much the refrigerant cools it, but it's not necessary like on central air conditioning, I'm more concerned about this belt burning you're talking about, can you make a video?

you sure you don't just have a bad idler pulley or something? It's a new clutch with the new compressor? I wouldn't expect it to be slipping. I replaced everything but the compressor on my system, it's cold in my truck!
 
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AntTim04

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I don't know what's going on! you have a new compressor and had a professional recharge the system for you. Compressors do get hot unless they're charged so much the refrigerant cools it, but it's not necessary like on central air conditioning, I'm more concerned about this belt burning you're talking about, can you make a video?

you sure you don't just have a bad idler pulley or something? It's a new clutch with the new compressor? I wouldn't expect it to be slipping. I replaced everything but the compressor on my system, it's cold in my truck!
Update
I tried running the truck for a minute with it in max ac and the clutch tried to disengage and engage again and then the ac clutch started to smoke
 

AntTim04

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I don't know what's going on! you have a new compressor and had a professional recharge the system for you. Compressors do get hot unless they're charged so much the refrigerant cools it, but it's not necessary like on central air conditioning, I'm more concerned about this belt burning you're talking about, can you make a video?

you sure you don't just have a bad idler pulley or something? It's a new clutch with the new compressor? I wouldn't expect it to be slipping. I replaced everything but the compressor on my system, it's cold in my truck!
I have a video how's the best way to get it on here?
 

Denisefwd93

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1994
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Ford
Engine Type
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4.0
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Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
stock, may get leveling springs in front "somday"
Tire Size
235
New clutch with new compressor? Now you have me wondering if you have a hydrostatic block on the high side translation; the high pressure is so high to compressor can't turn or the compressor is locked up.
I usually put a video on YouTube and copy the link here it's easier, takes up less bandwidth
I wouldn't expect the air gap to be large on a new clutch but that's easy to check.
 


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