busted another one

[compleckz]

got stuck the other day, and really was hammering on it to try and get out--finally broke a shaft since i started running 760x's with tacked caps (broke many shafts running 760x's with full-circle-clips)..

some of the marks are from the axle smashing around in the beam cuz i probably had it floored when it snapped.. i was doing all the wrong things, 1st gear 4 low pedal to the floor, wheel cut.. so its obviously my fault, but from the breakage pics can someone explain to me what failed first and why? if you cant tell this the inside u-joint on the passenger side, the broken ear is on the slip joint stub shaft. lockright front, 4.56 gears, c-clip elim.

now not to start another argument (but it will)--but i've broken the slip joint 3 times now--all have been clearanced for greater operating angle (but its never broken down where its been ground--so that not the issue).. also the beam window is hella cut out, the axles are not rubbing on ANYTHING in the beam..

many people will argue d44 solid axle vs d35 strength, but the d44 doesn't have the slip joint--which is the most common axle stub i've broken.. the d35 strength is generally good enough for me, but i'm finding the need for more than 14" of wheel travel.. i would love to go d60 so i can just hammer on it when needed, and if i could find someone to narrow one--i would. i have been thinking of starting to build an eb d44 on the cheap using cut full width shafts with 760x's tacked (or can you only use one side shaft from a full width)? then i would have about the same strength, with more flex and (2) less moving parts--AKA no center slip. i am pretty happy with 33s, the biggest i see me going is 35/36-- but 33s are just fine.

 

[metalmacguyver]

It looks like the yoke itself failed first IMHO.

 

[4x4junkie]

Is that previous damage to the yoke I see in pic # 1, 2 & 6? (gap at the bottom of the yoke where your tack weld is)?

 

[compleckz]

Is that previous damage to the yoke I see in pic # 1, 2 & 6? (gap at the bottom of the yoke where your tack weld is)?

the shafts were good when they went in, a few of the tacks broke during this incident (i dont think they failed first though), it looks like the cap was pulled/pushed further into the yoke..

the area isnt shiny, so i see what you're getting at, but the caps were press-fit when i put them in, the yoke was NOT previously egged. this was a good set of shafts.

and the yoke you're talking about, the cap dosent move, i just hammered on it.. so i dunno what that little low spot is. but regardless, its not the cause

 

[4x4junkie]

They look previously nicked up to me (not the recent shiny nicks from after it broke). That would cause stress risers within the nicks.

I dunno... True, a solid D44 doesn't have the slip shaft, but I just don't see the strength of any of the other joints being much above that of the slip (if at all), being I've broken outer joints and not the slip.
Honestly I'd keep the 35 until you can get ahold of a 60, as it seems you do hammer on it at times. Several others here have gone the same D44 route you're thinking, only to continue busting shafts on the D44 too (some even after putting alloys in it). With the 60 you're free to go up to 38-40+ inch tires if you ever decide you want to go that tall with it (due to your long wheelbase).

For some, buying a whole (broken, wrecked or otherwise) F-350 truck and then selling off the unneeded parts and scrapping the shell actually yielded getting their D60 for free (or close to it), plus then you get a matching 10.25" rear axle in the process. Might be the way to go if there are any for sale around you.

Narrowing it isn't all that hard if you got a good grinder and a sledgehammer, it's mostly just a matter of realigning the "C" properly (caster angle) when you hammer it back onto the tube (check in the Tech Library here, there should be some recently added info about how to narrow axles).

 

[compleckz]

Honestly I'd keep the 35 until you can get ahold of a 60, as it seems you do hammer on it at times.

D60 it is.. i dont want to have to continue to pussyfoot the D35..

 

[hitech_hick]

They look previously nicked up to me (not the recent shiny nicks from after it broke). Honestly I'd keep the 35 until you can get ahold of a 60, as it seems you do hammer on it at times. Several others here have gone the same D44 route you're thinking, only to continue busting shafts on the D44 too (some even after putting alloys in it). With the 60 you're free to go up to 38-40+ inch tires if you ever decide you want to go that tall with it (due to your long wheelbase).

For some, buying a whole (broken, wrecked or otherwise) F-350 truck and then selling off the unneeded parts and scrapping the shell actually yielded getting their D60 for free (or close to it), plus then you get a matching 10.25" rear axle in the process. Might be the way to go if there are any for sale around you.

Narrowing it isn't all that hard if you got a good grinder and a sledgehammer, it's mostly just a matter of realigning the "C" properly (caster angle) when you hammer it back onto the tube (check in the Tech Library here, there should be some recently added info about how to narrow axles).

D60 it is.. i dont want to have to continue to pussyfoot the D35..

Solid advise, this is the same route that I am taking. If you are patient with your parts gathering, you can save yourself a bunch of money.


hick