daily doubler build

[Bray D]

well, atleast we know you fuel filler neck will survive the holocost LOL

I don't get it . the filler neck was removed before any welding took place, just for clarification

 

[Bray D]

welp another weekend's over and the doubler is in!!!

started by pullin the shafts

next was the case, that was fun

once it was out I could build the doubler

and install it, barely fit with no body mods

and I've only got one pic of the driveshaft shortening process

once I got the rear shaft in a took her for a spin. she crawls like a baby. I tried to kill it by hittin the brakes and I just ended up power braking at idle
Link to Video

if anyone's curious why I cut the shaft there I'll go into it, I don't wanna type it all out now. lets just say it was a good idea that didn't happen, so I had to complete the cut there. it took me FOREVER to get it halfway straight. I'd tack it, bolt it up, and try tappin where it was out to bring it back in straight. broke the tacks twice so I tacked it the third time, got it pretty straight, and welded it up. drove it home with the cruise set at 55 and I could barely feel some vibrations. a passenger probably wouldn't even have noticed. I'm gonna get it balanced this week though cause I DO know its off a bit.

just checked the tech library so here's the breakdown:

1st gear m5od - 3.72
crawl box - 2.48
t-case - 2.48
axle gear - 4.65
final crawl - 104.3

 

[4x4junkie]

Yeah, the brakes pretty much have no effect against these things, I couldn't stall out my BII at idle by standing on the pedal either

That's how I did mine also.

What I did was lay the shaft in a piece of angle iron clamped in a vise, with a piece of metal (as a reference point) almost just barely touching the splined end. As I rotated the shaft in the angle iron, any wobble became obvious where the spline was next to the metal. Once I had it straight, I tacked it, checked it again for straightness, then welded 'er up.
Cool it fit without having to hack up the underside (I assume no bodylift?).

You'll dig that thing offroad for sure

 

[Bray D]

yeah I read where guys were just cutting into the weld, punching the splined portion of the shaft out, cutting to length, 'pressing' the splined part back into the tube and welding up. I couldn't get the splines to come out of the tube so I had to cut it all the way through. oh well, it's done and I'm sure will be fine after I get it ballanced.

yeah no bodylift. surprised me for sure. if the crawlbox had been an inch longer it wouldn't have been the same story. I didn't clock it at all either. I haven't decided if I want to or not. depending on body clearance vs clearance gained I may or may not clock it later this summer.

I'm super excited to get the crossmembers and front shaft built. I'm lookin forward to a shakedown run in may *crosses fingers*

 

[metalmacguyver]

Freaking sweet! Glad you got it done. I plan to build a doubler eventually and it makes me glad to see people DDing them.

Junkie, you think Hydroboost brakes would be able to stop a doubler?

And congrats on being the newest member of the tripple digit crawl ratio club.

 

[Bray D]

Thanks metalmacguyver! this is one of the most involved projects I've done. it's not quite done though. next weekend will be pretty busy but I'll try and get the shifter on it. then I've still got to mod the tranny crossmember, build a new one to support the t-case, and build the front d-shaft. I only have saturday nights and sundays to work on it since it is my DD so I plan on a weekend per crossmember. call it 4 more weeks and I'll be wheelin.

oh yeah and the 100+ crawl club

 

[metalmacguyver]

cool man. I still have quite a ways to go before i get a doubler built and in (I already have a sector shaft) and its builds like yours that will help me out.

You going to the TRS 10th anniversary?

 

[Bray D]

I'd really like to but I'm not gonna commit to anything right now. I'm graduating from a junior college this may and am trying to figure out transfer arrangements to a university. I'll still be in school when the 10yr rolls around so I'll just have to see how things pan out.

 

[mjonesjr]

holy cow! that is the first electric/manual doubler i have seen....does it work like normal?

 

[Ranger Dave]

this is how i do mine. comes out beauty every time

http://rbvheaven.ipbfree.com/index.php?showtopic=217


nice job by the way

 

[Bray D]

mjones - though the ones I've seen have been all with 2 manual cases, I'm positive there are manual/electric doublers around. yea it works the same, I'll have the stock shifter in the floor for the first case then I have my electric shift switch in my dash for the second case. the plug for the shift motor was long enough to work but I had to extend the wires for my speed sensor. so yes, everything works like from the factory-I just have both the floor shifter as well as the electric shift switch.

dave - that's EXACTLY what I had planned on doing. I couldn't get the splines to part with the tube for some reason. here's a pic after cutting the weld

that's after I cut it a little deep. I started off with it in my chopsaw and I'd rotate the tube while cutting to get as square of a cut as I could. once I was done with the chopsaw I tried to get the splined portion out and it wouldn't come, so I cut deeper with a cutoff wheel on a die grinder and it still wouldn't come out. so I just cut it all the way through. doing it that way sure would've made it easier to true it up

 

[metalmacguyver]

holy cow! that is the first electric/manual doubler i have seen....does it work like normal?

Actually doing it that way has the added benefit of not haveing to fab up shift linkages for the rear case.


BrayD, are you going with one of those up down doubler shifter linkages or something else?

 

[Bray D]

BrayD, are you going with one of those up down doubler shifter linkages or something else?

since the manual case is my front one I'll be able to use the factory manual shift linkage. my interior will look stock, I'll just have the shifter on the floor AND the switch on the dash.

well I say I will be able to use the stock shifter but I don't have it in yet so I guess I don't know for sure. I don't see why it won't be bolt on though (other than cuttin a hole in my floor)

 

[Evan]

Fabbing up shift linkage it not too hard. It took me about 2.5 hours and cost several dollars. It's nice to have both cases manual.

Looks good!

 

[Bray D]

thanks evan. I cleaned my shift motor a while back, since then the E case has been pretty reliable. if it starts giving my problems I've got a manual case for backup