Explorer Sport trac brake upgrade for Ranger Help needed badly

[pjtoledo]

So I picked up the bearings and wheel seals and it appears that backside race isn't installed. Can someone look at this rotor and confirm please. This is my first time dealing with front wheel bearings. I suspect I should rent a race installation tool from the parts store. Thanks in advance!

the roller bearing pictured is for the outer set.

in the helpful hint files...
new hub/rotor units that have the races pre-installed can be very difficult to remove the races. the hub casting does not always
have cut-outs or slots allowing access to the race with tools.
the hub pictured is one of those.

 

[Drummadude]

Did you order bearings for an '87 Ranger or a '97 one? Does the bearing fit on the spindle?

'87 Ranger uses

cup/cone id od thickness​

LM67048/LM67010 1.250 2.328 0.625 aka set 6​

LM67048/LM67010 0.750 1.781 0.610​

​

'97 Ranger uses

LM48549/LM48510 1.375 2.5625 0.710 aka set 5​

LM11949/LM11910 0.750 1.781 0.655​

​

Seals are different too

I ordered for a 97. I went ahead last night and ordered a set 5, should get here this morning. Thx!

 

[Drummadude]

Yes, it sounds like either you are trying to install the bearing in the wrong spot, or they gave you the wrong bearing. If it drops that far into the rotor, it sounds more like the outer bearing.

Number 8 in this picture is going to be your inner bearing, it should ride on the race (shiny polished metal) in the picture above. Your outer bearing, number 10, is going to go in from the other side of the rotor after you have it slid on the spindle. There should be another shiny metal race on that side of the rotor.

View attachment 109903

If you don't have a bearing that sits properly on the inner race, then they definitely got you the wrong stuff.

Do you have the part numbers handy for the bearings that you have. Should be 4 bearings total, two of each part number. If you can provide those P/N maybe we can help figure out where the confusion is.

I think the parts counter guy gave me the wrong bearings. I ordered the set 5 last night. Thanks for your assistance!

 

[Drummadude]

Success! Thanks guys!

 

[Drummadude]

Yes, it sounds like either you are trying to install the bearing in the wrong spot, or they gave you the wrong bearing. If it drops that far into the rotor, it sounds more like the outer bearing.

Number 8 in this picture is going to be your inner bearing, it should ride on the race (shiny polished metal) in the picture above. Your outer bearing, number 10, is going to go in from the other side of the rotor after you have it slid on the spindle. There should be another shiny metal race on that side of the rotor.

View attachment 109903

If you don't have a bearing that sits properly on the inner race, then they definitely got you the wrong stuff.

Do you have the part numbers handy for the bearings that you have. Should be 4 bearings total, two of each part number. If you can provide those P/N maybe we can help figure out where the confusion is.

Josh, so I have both rotors on now. My problem is my Mustang rims are not seating. What wheel did you use on the Explorer rotor upgrade? The tolerance is close, my calipers show the Explorer OD 70.50mm and the Mustang ID at 70mm. Does anyone have an opinion on the shaving of the half a millimeter? The best way to go about it if it's possible? Options?

 

[superj]

I have done that on many rims. You can put it bore out on the rotor and hold sand paper ehile you spin it. If it wont fit, put it on something and spin it because doing it by going around a little bit at a time gets old

 

[pjtoledo]

post a picture of the back side of the Mustang wheels.
when mixing 'n matching wheels and rotors/hubs occasionally a mis-match occurs between the two.
it can happen when the wheel mounting surface has depressions or hollowed out areas.

enlarging the center bore sounds easy, doing it right not so much.
if you grind too much on only one side you'll get out-of-round and it won't balance.

is there a sufficient bevel on the wheel? there needs to be one because the hub has a rounded transition zone.
if the wheel goes on but stops about 1/8 or 1/16 from seating it's the bevel not being big enough.

 

[superj]

You can spin the hub and smooth it eith sand paper too, to get it a hair smaller

 

[JoshT]

Josh, so I have both rotors on now. My problem is my Mustang rims are not seating. What wheel did you use on the Explorer rotor upgrade? The tolerance is close, my calipers show the Explorer OD 70.50mm and the Mustang ID at 70mm. Does anyone have an opinion on the shaving of the half a millimeter? The best way to go about it if it's possible? Options?

I didn't. Bought the parts. Totaled the truck. Bought another first gen to build, got my hands on the cobra brake kit, never built the truck. Bought another first gen last year, and will hopefully put one or the other to use in the next year or two.

These guys are pointing you in the right direction. 1/2 mm isn;t much to remove. You'd be better off removing it from the wheel if that isn't clear already.

Before you start grinding on anything, take a close look at your wheel fitment and see if you are going to want spacers. That 70.5 is at the base of the hub/spindle, but it tapers as it moves outboard. If you want a 1/4 or 1/2 inch spacer that may be enough to allow the wheel to seat without any grinding. Using a spacer is pretty common with Mustang wheels on these trucks, and I think it's usually enough to provide the needed clearance.

 

[stmitch]

If you get the Mustang wheels to fit over the hub, you may still have the dust cap sticking out far enough that you won't be able to run a center cap on the wheel.

I ran into a similar issue with my Cobra brake upgrade (it uses a modified Ranger hub) and reproduction FR500s. I pressed the lug studs out of the hub and turned down the diameter of the hub slightly in a brake lathe. This meant no spacers needed, but I also don't run a center cap:

If that's not appealing to you, then a spacer is the way to go.