Mysteryous bogging... '97 2.3

[lordkyleofearth]

I've had a short love/hate relationship with my ranger. After a rough start to our time together, it now has a rebuilt bottom end (rings, bearings, seals, gaskets) and a few electrical issues (O2 heater circuit fault). However it recently started having a new problem, and I can't figure it out.

After I start to reach the upper end of my daily RPM range (not sure where exactly, the tach has never worked) the engine starts to bog down and miss-fire. This has effectivly limited the truck to a max speed of ~55mph which is down right dangerous on the Texas freeway system.

It seems that the longer I drive, the worse it gets (the dead zone drops to lower RPMs) and some times when I go to start the truck it will crank but never catch. This can be remedied by disconnecting the battery and cycling the lights.

It sometimes backfires a bit so I figured the plugs were fouled (from running rich) and so I pulled them and they are white (which indicates lean running correct?) I installed new Autolite double platinums (gapped 0.44) and the problem persisted.

It all started after I filled up at a different gas station, and seemed to get better after I topped off with some 93 octane, but it has sense returned so I'm starting to suspect gas is not the problem.

I know that my O2 system has a fault in the heater circuit, but it has always had that fault and this problem only started a few days ago. Any ideas? I commute 45mins a day along road with no shoulder, so I really want to get this sorted out before I am stranded blocking 80mph traffic.

 

[schlutzer]

Fuel filter, its a cheap part and could just be simply clogged.

Even if it doesn't fix it, it's such a cheap part its worth changing anyway.

 

[lilred96]

check ur fuel filter and fuel pressure

 

[jobar]

My question is why are you running 93 octane on a 4 cylinder? The 93 octane could be the reason for the white plugs. Make sure your spark plug wires are routed correctly, had that problem before and mine would bogg down at idle. (as well as highway speeds)

 

[AgPete139]

Also running fuel injector cleaner or a bottle of Seafoam in your tank will help with your fuel lines.

I agree, try the $5 fuel filter. It's supposed to be changed every 6 months, but I do mine yearly. It's held on with a hose clamp/sleeve (flathead screwdriver), and is easily disconnected by removing the 2 clips with pliers. It is located on the inside frame rail, underneath the drivers seat.



Takes 10 minutes. Good luck.



Pete

 

[lordkyleofearth]

My question is why are you running 93 octane on a 4 cylinder? The 93 octane could be the reason for the white plugs. Make sure your spark plug wires are routed correctly, had that problem before and mine would bogg down at idle. (as well as highway speeds)

I topped off with 93 octane because I suspected it was a bad tank of gas (since this all started right after I tanked up) that was causing knocks and pulled timing. I still think the gas was bad, but not the source of this problem.


I managed to limp the truck into town and to a parts store today (it died in an adjacent parking lot). I pulled the MAF and cleaned it off, there was a layer of soot on one element that I tapped off with the back of a knife, then I hit the assembly with MAF cleaner. It seems to have helped some.

I didn't have the chance to change the filter (security guard asked me to move along) so I'll try it tomorrow. I did have the codes pulled while at autozone and I just have my 2 O2 heater fault codes, nothing new.

I post again tomorrow if things get worse or after the filter is installed.



*EDIT*

Lots of back firing on the way home again, but I was able to get power back afterwards. It seems to get worse once I leave the city and the temperature drops down 5+ degrees outside. It will slowly bog down, back fire pretty hard once or twice, then get back to driving along semi-normal.

I'm more documenting this for anyone in the future with similar issues.

 

[modelageek]

make sure the air intake is not clogged.......as stated change the fuel filter........you want to relieve the pressure first. you can do this by pulling the relay or fuse and starting the truck. on the 1997 you need the $10 tool to safly and accuratly pull the fuel filter. make sure you put it in the right direction...........add some Techron to the tank. if that does not work you might want to do a fuel pressure test..........you can also can do the disconnect the sensors one at a time trick and see if you get a reaction from the truck......MAF, ect, iacv, etc.......

 

[AgPete139]

make sure the air intake is not clogged.......as stated change the fuel filter........you want to relieve the pressure first. you can do this by pulling the relay or fuse and starting the truck. on the 1997 you need the $10 tool to safly and accuratly pull the fuel filter. make sure you put it in the right direction...........add some Techron to the tank. if that does not work you might want to do a fuel pressure test..........you can also can do the disconnect the sensors one at a time trick and see if you get a reaction from the truck......MAF, ect, iacv, etc.......

I never use those disconnect clips. They only complicate things. I've got a '97. It also complicated issues on my parents' 3.8L Taurus, and my '92 5.0L Mustang. They are not necessary.


However, I completely agree about pulling the fuse & starting the truck to relieve the pressure. Worse case scenario, is you pull it anyways and get an unfortunate amount of gas spilled on your shit. Whenever I change things with the fuel lines, I ALWAYS WEAR GOGGLES. Eye protection is very important, when welding/hammering/chemicals.


But, as stated before from my post and modelageek's, use the Seafoam or Techron. If it's a fuel issue like we are all expecting, this should help clear it up.


If your vacuum lines are clogged up, there is a method to clean out that gunk, too. It involves removing a hose of the brake booster, but that's for later.

 

[modelageek]

I never use those disconnect clips. They only complicate things. I've got a '97. It also complicated issues on my parents' 3.8L Taurus, and my '92 5.0L Mustang. They are not necessary.


However, I completely agree about pulling the fuse & starting the truck to relieve the pressure. Worse case scenario, is you pull it anyways and get an unfortunate amount of gas spilled on your shit. Whenever I change things with the fuel lines, I ALWAYS WEAR GOGGLES. Eye protection is very important, when welding/hammering/chemicals.


But, as stated before from my post and modelageek's, use the Seafoam or Techron. If it's a fuel issue like we are all expecting, this should help clear it up.


If your vacuum lines are clogged up, there is a method to clean out that gunk, too. It involves removing a hose of the brake booster, but that's for later.

I use the clips........what i mostly was talking about is make sure you use the proper removal tool. some people use a screwdriver and imho you are just asking for trouble. the tool is $10.....here is a link to it http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/ass8012.html

 

[lordkyleofearth]

This morning I wasn't able to drive the truck more than 100 feet before it would stall out at idle and die, really hard to restart.

So I had to ride my bicycle 30 mins to Autozone (in a light rain too). Great start to the day :|

Got back and started to change the filter of course I couldn't find my fuel line tool, so I improvised one using the old fuel line clips; dirty but effective. I also added some seafoam to the tank and reset the computer (because it still wouldn't idle).

It seems good now. I'll take it out for a longer drive tonight and check for sure, but it seems to be running as well as ever. The old filter was defiantly dirty, the fuel that drained from it was tea colored. I guess my injectors may be a bit clogged too as a result.

 

[AgPete139]

Definitely a solid sign that it has not been changed in a very long while.

 

[modelageek]

This morning I wasn't able to drive the truck more than 100 feet before it would stall out at idle and die, really hard to restart.

So I had to ride my bicycle 30 mins to Autozone (in a light rain too). Great start to the day :|

Got back and started to change the filter of course I couldn't find my fuel line tool, so I improvised one using the old fuel line clips; dirty but effective. I also added some seafoam to the tank and reset the computer (because it still wouldn't idle).

It seems good now. I'll take it out for a longer drive tonight and check for sure, but it seems to be running as well as ever. The old filter was defiantly dirty, the fuel that drained from it was tea colored. I guess my injectors may be a bit clogged too as a result.

excellent......I constantly preach changing the fuel filter .they never get changed enough....... Seafoam is good stuff but I swear by Techron....throw a bottle in your afer another tank............it will clean those injectors right out. also if you have not done so recently clean the TB, iacv and maf.......that will help with the idle......

*you should add a location to your profile it will help with DXing

 

[lordkyleofearth]

Just got back form a test run. First time in over a week the truck has gone 70 mph. First time in three days it hasn't died at some point during the commute. There was still a small hesitation from time to time, but it would always power on through it rather than bog down and die. I suspect that the hesitation will pass as the seafoam gets a chance to work on the rest of the system.


Thank you guys so very much. Not being stranded 40 miles from work and 30 miles from school is a huge load off my shoulders.

In a super bonus, one of my neighbors was out working on her car today. I helped her fix a stuck door handle and she was so grateful that she brought my fiancée and I some cake Good karma and a running truck, what more could I ask out of a day?

 

[AgPete139]

Fabulous!

I'm so glad it worked. Congrats on your success, and good luck with the rest of the fuel lines & injectors getting cleaned out. But indeed, spray your IAC valve & the MAF sensor with carb cleaner. It WILL be needed.


Clean the carbon out form inside this:

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/503/3661iac_sensor_after_removing_black_cap.jpg
http://www.fordf150.net/howto/images/tbclean/10iac.jpg





Spray this sensor near your air intake filter:

http://fordfuelinjection.com/images/maf.jpg

 

[AgPete139]

Oh, and Welcome to TRS. I have some Aggie friends from Boerne...