Official A4LD Problem Thread!

[Viper Command]

Okay well I'm not sure that it's just a bad valve body anymore. I completely lost reverse the other day as well. So there's a no shift into OD in OD, and a no shift into 3 in D, plus no reverse gear. Am I going to have to replace bands and clutches and all that hoo-haa?

The direct drum cluthces are gone. sorry to tell you but it needs a rebuild, or at least a soft rebuild.

If you do the rebuild your self it would cost $400 max, but shops charge $900-2,100. it sounds hard, if you break it into steps its quite easy.

 

[TRUCKMECH66]

A4LD Won't move when shifted to O/D but works fine in all other gears

I've got a '94 Ranger Ext cab 4X4 with the 4.0 and the A4LD transmission.
I bought the truck for parts, the previous owner said the transmission was out.
I got the truck home and found the only thing that didn't work was OD, I can put it in drive, 2 or 1 and it works fine, in drive it will upshift through all the gears, and then you can shift it in to OD and it shifts again, and the converter locks up, or appears to, you can feel it shift 5 times. when you stop and it's in OD, it won't move, but drop it back in drive and it goes.
the transmission doesn't slip in any gear and it does shift firmly, but not what I'd call hard. if anybody has any suggestions, please help me out.
thanks,
Keith

 

[Viper Command]

I've got a '94 Ranger Ext cab 4X4 with the 4.0 and the A4LD transmission.
I bought the truck for parts, the previous owner said the transmission was out.
I got the truck home and found the only thing that didn't work was OD, I can put it in drive, 2 or 1 and it works fine, in drive it will upshift through all the gears, and then you can shift it in to OD and it shifts again, and the converter locks up, or appears to, you can feel it shift 5 times. when you stop and it's in OD, it won't move, but drop it back in drive and it goes.
the transmission doesn't slip in any gear and it does shift firmly, but not what I'd call hard. if anybody has any suggestions, please help me out.
thanks,
Keith

You have a bad (rear oneway clutch). its in the main case at the back.
If your going to do it it would save you big $$$$$, and its easy.

 

[crusin93]

I found 3things: If you have A 2solenoid valve body your OD solenoid could be bad or bad wires to it, miss ajusted down shift cable, and or A bad governor in the tail shaft housing.

Hope this helps you out.

Thanks for the info. This will give me some direction in which to begin making adjustments/repairs. I'll let you know what I find after I put it up on the lift.+1

 

[James Denton]

I have just rebuilt a 93 FORD EXPLORER A4LD----I have all forward gears but know reverse at all---want move----what could it be---Going to check valve body first-to see if any valves are stick-----Got any idea

 

[Viper Command]

I have just rebuilt a 93 FORD EXPLORER A4LD----I have all forward gears but know reverse at all---want move----what could it be---Going to check valve body first-to see if any valves are stick-----Got any idea

Good place to start.
valve body reverse valve sticking and or dirty
improper separator gasket seal/ over or under tightened
leaking check ball inside of piston/ leaking piston seal rings
pump damaged/ under pressure
reverse piston servo seal cut/ torn

 

[mark1000]

i am about to do a clutch job on my ranger, i have the A4LD. I have been hearing some whining from 3rd to 5th gear, would that be the throwout bearing or loose gears? thanks

 

[Robert_1967]

i am about to do a clutch job on my ranger, i have the A4LD. I have been hearing some whining from 3rd to 5th gear, would that be the throwout bearing or loose gears? thanks

A4LD is a automatic, there is no throw out bearing.


Robert

 

[TRUCKMECH66]

Originally Posted by TRUCKMECH66 View Post
I've got a '94 Ranger Ext cab 4X4 with the 4.0 and the A4LD transmission.
I bought the truck for parts, the previous owner said the transmission was out.
I got the truck home and found the only thing that didn't work was OD, I can put it in drive, 2 or 1 and it works fine, in drive it will upshift through all the gears, and then you can shift it in to OD and it shifts again, and the converter locks up, or appears to, you can feel it shift 5 times. when you stop and it's in OD, it won't move, but drop it back in drive and it goes.
the transmission doesn't slip in any gear and it does shift firmly, but not what I'd call hard. if anybody has any suggestions, please help me out.
thanks,
Keith

You have a bad (rear oneway clutch). its in the main case at the back.
If your going to do it it would save you big $$$$$, and its easy.

Thanks Viper
I'm guessing this means an overhaul? I've never been inside an automatic, especially one this small, me being a heavy equipment/ semi truck mechanic.
I've always wanted to try one! Are there any special tools I'd need, or any tips, tricks or a good tech reference you'd recommend for this? any suggestions on purchasing a good quality inexpensive kit?
any help would be greatly appreciated!
thanks,
Keith

 

[Viper Command]

a good tech reference you'd recommend for this? any suggestions on purchasing a good quality inexpensive kit?
any help would be greatly appreciated!
thanks,
Keith

go to page #8 at the bottom post #80, I list all the tools needed, and use this link to guide you through the hard spots.
http://therangerstation.com/tech_library/pdf_documents/A4LD_manual.pdf

good luck, were here if you need us.

ps red alto clutches and bands are the best, if the reverse band need replacing go kevlar. but just inspect all wearable parts, and replace as necc. keeps the cost down.

 

[john93rangerstx]

i have a code of 631 in my 95 explorer 4x4 a/t 4.o any idears and a 648 code

 

[pcollins]

i am about to do a clutch job on my ranger, i have the A4LD. I have been hearing some whining from 3rd to 5th gear, would that be the throwout bearing or loose gears? thanks

Wait, there is no single clutch in your truck, and there is no throwout bearing. You have an automatic. And you also don't have a 5th gear, A4LDs never came with one. A single gear wouldn't be bad in an auto anyways, there are 4 of them in each drum.

 

[wavector]

I recently replaced the mod. valve and everything was fine for awhile, then first to second shift is delayed, First will go up and slightly over 3000+ rpm before the shift. I had dropped the pan too and re-dropped it today. The tranny fluid is milky but the radiator shows no sign of tranny fluid. I think the pan drop/filter change at the time of the MV replacement may have caused trash to interfere with the mod valve. I'm thinking about using some trans-x to clean things up, but I'm fearful of losing the tranny completely. Can't afford to lose the truck for at least 3 weeks. Just started a new job and the commute is 37 miles one way. Money is very tight.

Thanks for being here.

 

[Viper Command]

I recently replaced the mod. valve and everything was fine for awhile, then first to second shift is delayed, First will go up and slightly over 3000+ rpm before the shift. I had dropped the pan too and re-dropped it today. The tranny fluid is milky but the radiator shows no sign of tranny fluid. I think the pan drop/filter change at the time of the MV replacement may have caused trash to interfere with the mod valve. I'm thinking about using some trans-x to clean things up, but I'm fearful of losing the tranny completely. Can't afford to lose the truck for at least 3 weeks. Just started a new job and the commute is 37 miles one way. Money is very tight.

Thanks for being here.

that sounds like the trans cooler in the rad. is leaking.

The cheepest thing to do, is to buy a very large trans cooler and bypass the rad cooler, but if you can get a rad for cheeper then go that route.

but you do have to get the water out of the trans fluid, try and flush it as best as you can or replace the fluid.

 

[wavector]

I had the tranny flushed today and will keep and eye on the fluid. The tranny guy said he didn't think the radiator was the problem. I'm going to give it a couple of days now that the fluid is fresh. I go back in for fluid check Friday. I'm wondering if the new mod valve is bad or was affected by the bad fluid and went bad. I'm thinking about changing it again because it's still under warranty from AutoZone. It shifted at first until I brought the fluid level up. How hard is it to get the actual valve out and check to see if there's junk holding it in the valve body?