Official A4LD Problem Thread!

[579]

Hello everyone,

I am a Ranger owner, finally. I have been wanting one for so long. I am restoring a 79 ford bronco and daily driving it too. this is great, but alot of wear and tear occurs in the process. So I needed an awesome little ranger and found a good deal on one from a family member. If I cannot figure out my problem I will have to give it back and I certainly do not want to do that.

So I have been hangin out on this site for a while learning the ins and outs of the trucks that everyone posts about. I have looked and looked for answers to some transmission woes I have encountered on the truck since I started driving it 2 weeks ago.

I have read this thread, all 11 pages of it (twice) and still cannot pin point my exact problem. I forgot to introduce my ranger, 1994 4 cylinder automatic. I live in south texas so it is great having a/c too. The truck shifts great, all three gears, are firm and sure shifting, except for 4th gear.
no leaks
no noises
fluid is up to level and smells and looks great.
no sign of fluid in the vacuum hose that feeds the modulator.

above 45mph, under load, or trying to pass, or trying to accelerate to keep speed while going up a hill, overdrive completely pops out and the truck revs as if it were in neutral. i let off the gas, let it catch up, and then get back into the throttle very gingerly, and it might catch and stay for a bit or pop out again. if i go to regular DRIVE then its fine. shifts great. in fact it drives and shifts really great except for this overdirve ordeal. this is the little truck i have wanted for a very long time and everything is perfect

i am not new to building on trucks. i have been doing it for 12 years or so now and i know better than to start dumping money on every little issue that MIGHT be the problem. i just wanna try and pinpoint this before i either spend way too much, or have to give it back.

thanks for helpin a newbie. ask me anything

 

[crusin93]

Thanks for the info. This will give me some direction in which to begin making adjustments/repairs. I'll let you know what I find after I put it up on the lift.+1

Viper Command, thanks. I started with the kickdown cable adjustment. Had an assistant floor the gas and pushed the "D" shaped button on the firewall adjuster. Sure enough, the cable self adjusted and the problem is gone. I still find myself anticipating the 3-4 shift phenom. It's nice to have it stay in OD. For anyone else with this problem, start with the easy, cheap fixes first.
You might just get lucky.

 

[wavector]

Viper Command, thanks. I started with the kickdown cable adjustment. Had an assistant floor the gas and pushed the "D" shaped button on the firewall adjuster. Sure enough, the cable self adjusted and the problem is gone. I still find myself antisapating the 3-4 shift phenom. It's nice to have it stay in OD. For anyone else with this problem, start with the easy, cheap fixes first.
You might just get lucky.

What is this adjustment you're talking about and how do I do it? Where is the "D" shaped button? I remember reading something about this to get slack out of the throttle cable. Does this affect tranny performance?

 

[crusin93]

What is this adjustment you're talking about and how do I do it? Where is the "D" shaped button? I remember reading something about this to get slack out of the throttle cable. Does this affect tranny performance?

Yes, this adjustment will effect kickdown. I read the post stating you completly loose OD gear. I don't know if this adjustment will help, but you can try. First look on the firewall, drivers side inside engine compartment. Locate the kickdown cable. It's the one that goes under the truck, not to the throtle body. At the point this cable passes through the firewall, you will see the adjuster. Floor the gas pedal with engine off. Wedge in a 2x4 to keep the pedal down. This will put some tension on the cable. While floored, push the "D"shaped button on top of the adjuster. It will click a few times, or the cable will move a little if out of adjustment. Test drive the truck. Let us know if that helps. If not, you may be in the market for a new OD solenoid.

 

[579]

I am piggy backing on the adjustment of the cable. I will try it out on mine too.

I just found out, everyone who drove the ranger before me, never used the overdrive. they drove everywhere in regular drive.

 

[579]

I adjusted the bands and tried to adjust the cable as you outlined above. still the same thing.

where is the overdrive solenoid? how hard is it to change?

is this the same as someone was describing on an earlier post where it is circular, 2.5 inches across and close to the bell housing?

 

[Viper Command]

I adjusted the bands and tried to adjust the cable as you outlined above. still the same thing.

where is the overdrive solenoid? how hard is it to change?

is this the same as someone was describing on an earlier post where it is circular, 2.5 inches across and close to the bell housing?

the od solenoid is in the trans pan, closest to the bellhousing w/ wires comming out the back. remove 2 or 3 10mm bolts, remove the locking bar, unplug it and slide it out. its that easy but makes a mess.

on the outside of the trans as you described is the servos.

When you ajusted the band you to 10ft-lbs and backed it off 2 full turns?

Did you inspect the od servo (closest to your trans cooler lines) for tears, rips, cracks?

 

[579]

Thanks for getting back to me,
I have not checked either component. I wanted to make sure the terminology was correct. Now I will pull the servo and inspect it. I really hope it is something easy. I adjusted the bands, both of them to spec. I feels a bit better. It resists popping out of od better now, but is still pops out. It takes a bit more throttle to do so now.

I'm out of town till mon. I will pull the servo and inspect it asap. And get back to you .

Thanks again

 

[579]

Well the servo seems very stubborn. I can't find the way to disengage the snap ring. Since I get od if I shift manually or stay very soft on the throttle, which of these two components is it most likely to be? The servo cover is not leaking . Is the solenoid easily found at part stores?

 

[Viper Command]

Bolth parts only aval. at trans shops, and ford. sounds like a cloged solenoid.

 

[579]

Thanks , I'll start calling around. The tranny could use a new filter I'm sure anymways.
I'll keep ya posted.

By the way viper command, I use one of my Broncos for all the off roading stuff too. It's great fun.

 

[579]

o'reilly has a part called the : a/t control solenoid. here is the description.

Pioneer Inc. - Solenoid
Part Number: 771011
Line: PIO
Lock-Up
A4LD
1 Year Limited Warranty

 

[wavector]

1994 A4LD Ranger 4.0L 4X4

I replaced the the vacuum modulator and have had the shifting problems that so many have mentioned. I tried to remove the valve itself the other day and could not get it out as it doesn't move freely. I ended up pushing it in as far as it can go trying to free it up. This fixed the high rpm 1-2 shift, but I have noticed that the 2-3 shift is a little delayed and/or slipping (I'm guessing it because of the valve position). I had the system flushed Wednesday and topped fluids on Saturday (because I has tried to work on the mod valve and lost some fluid in the process). The pin is installed, however the valve itself seems to be hard to remove. I only used snap ring pliers to remove it with no luck coming from inside the cab. I read where I may need needle nose or hemostats to remove the actual valve itself. Are there any of the retaining pins or H-holders for that valve? Or, can I just pull out the valve without destroying anything? Thanks for being here.

I would love to do a VB rebuild using the kits that are available, but I have never done anything like this before, so there's some fear present. This is all new to me, but I think I have the ability to absorb information and transmit it to my hands. I'm at least willing to anyway. I really love learning new stuff and working with my hands.


I'm wondering if you guys think this will be okay for a couple of weeks until I can get some funds and afford to find other transportation to and from work.

 

[579]

I was gonna replace my module, buy upon inspection, there was no tranny fluid present in the vacuum line, and this is the main symptom to the module being faulty. I could also swivel mine as it is in the tranny, but can swiveling it actually cause it to make the tranny act up? Besides it being too loose, which would effect vacuum.

I am not new to trucks but I am to the ranger world . I've been trouble shooting my problem for a few weeks now.

Anyone else know if the module being loose enough to swivel would cause problems?
Removing the module should just be taking the bolt out that holds the retainer for the module, then just pull it out. If it's like the C-6 in my bronco , there should only be an o-ring after the bolt and retainer are removed . But there could be more to it on a ranger.

 

[Viper Command]

1994 A4LD Ranger 4.0L 4X4

I replaced the the vacuum modulator and have had the shifting problems that so many have mentioned. I tried to remove the valve itself the other day and could not get it out as it doesn't move freely. I ended up pushing it in as far as it can go trying to free it up. This fixed the high rpm 1-2 shift, but I have noticed that the 2-3 shift is a little delayed and/or slipping (I'm guessing it because of the valve position). I had the system flushed Wednesday and topped fluids on Saturday (because I has tried to work on the mod valve and lost some fluid in the process). The pin is installed, however the valve itself seems to be hard to remove. I only used snap ring pliers to remove it with no luck coming from inside the cab. I read where I may need needle nose or hemostats to remove the actual valve itself. Are there any of the retaining pins or H-holders for that valve?

If your using snap ring pliers, your attempting to remove the servo.

the vac. mod. has a vacuume line attached to it, and its a 10mm bolt.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


579:
moving the vac. mod. should not make any difference, but it is posable when you move it could causes a vacuume leak.