Still no power....pulling hair out...

[bobbywalter]

steady fade on vac gauge at idle or is it holding 17? no flutter?


what did the plugs tell you?

what is the compression?


may be simply shitty injectors.

put the auto jumper in the clutch line wire and try the auto pc if its handy...


with what your listing here sound like wore the fawk out engine or shit injectors. may just be plugged up on the screen.....the plugged fpr line is not a good sign....if its been over fueling too long the engine is probably shit....may as well have had a 4 bbl on it.


if the top end is wore out its not moving the valve correctly and your not making power.

 

[dirtymike]

pull one of the injectors and see if the screen is full of rust. The fuel rail is made of steel. If it sit for a while the rail will rust after all the fuel evaporates.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

The plugs were pretty black. But evenly black. But the distributor cap was so bad i can understand that.

I havent done a compression check.

The vacuum gauge didnt drop or flutter.

For shits i went and bought a new ignition module. Now it does seem to do better down low, and it idles better. But, once you hit 4th its all over and im still getting the issue where after using engine braking and hitting the clutch it damn near stalls (it actually did stall once, but fired right back up)

I tried dumping seafoam down the tank as a last resort, fogged the intake with it as well, other then making quite the impressive smoke show it did no good.

I guess i should maybe check compression, but the problem came on so suddenly. Plus i would think it would start hard or somthing, it dont, 1 or 2 starter spins youre off to the races.

 

[fastpakr]

If your code reader thinks it's giving you continuous codes while the engine is running, I'd be inclined to throw it against the nearest wall.

 

[telsar]

Perhaps your exhaust has blockage like the cat or mufler or mashed pipe. Easy to verify.

 

[Denisefwd93]

Perhaps your exhaust has blockage like the cat or mufler or mashed pipe. Easy to verify.

Uh oh lol

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Perhaps your exhaust has blockage like the cat or mufler or mashed pipe. Easy to verify.

No mashed pipe.

The cat isnt rattley and vaccuum test was good.

The gasket is all blown out though anyways, maybe i should just chop the farkin thing off anyways and eliminate it as a possibility.

 

[fastpakr]

Did you ever get the Mitchell book? It really sounds to me like the code 18 is your problem, and it will have the tests you need to chase that down.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

[bobbywalter]

does it have a tach? does it freak out allot...??


i would do a continuity test between the coil neg and pin 4. the fat bastard resistor may be cooked or wire broke or something not sending any signal,,,


if you have a spare distributor i would swap them as its possible the hall is shitty, and faulty signals result that can cause issues...

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Fast,

No i did not order it. Was being stubborn. However i dug it up from the last thread and its still available, as soon as i walk in the door this afternoon im going to order it.

Bobby,
That resistor youre talking about i had read about in some various code 18 google searches, out of curosity is it located somewhere around the drivers side inner fender? Attached to the green coil wire?

It seems like i ran across it many years ago on rusty #1. Im wondering because this all started the day after i redid the brake lines. Im wondering if i tore something by accident. I dont remember seeing anything when i looked thru that mess of wireing, but ill look again.

Also. Yes i do have a dist i can yank from my old truck. Thats on this weekends list.


This maybe waaaaay out in left field here, but it wouldnt be a TPS issue would it? Reason im curious is because i noticed the RPMs no longer "hang" when you hit the clutch while moving, and i noticed a slight rpm surge at idle. But if i unplug the iac it stalls and it never idles high.

Just brainstorming. I doubt thats the issue, but just curious whst yall thought.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Checked the resistor. It maxed my voltmeter out. So i assume its functioning correctly.

I noticed (by accident) the distributor cap had rattled loose, tighted it back down, now my code reader says its a 6 cylinder...

I took it down let my mechanic drive it, he said it seems like its missfireing. But if it is i cant tell. Its smooth as silk as soon as you toe it above idle or going down the road.

Its definatly running better now that i got the dist cap tightend down. But im still getting the code 18 and 33. It feels pretty spunky again untill you get to speed and hit a hill. Which, if the EGR is closing, but the DPFE thinks its open, wont it keep dumping fuel like it was actually open? Therefore creating a rich condition? Hence the bogging/power loss...or am i lost again?

Im wondering if the DPFE sensor is toast. It keeps saying the egr is not closing properly. The EGR is suppose to close as RPM increases correct? Cause at idle if i pull off the pulse tube i get a pretty decent flow, as i rev it the pulse lessens till it stops. So it seems like the EGR is in fact functioning properly...right?

TPS tested good, according to ohms anyways.

 

[RonD]

EGR Valve should be closed tight at idle, so no vacuum on the EGR's vacuum line.
Just unhook that vacuum line and plug it, so EGR can't open then go for a drive.

DPFE = Delta or (Differential) Pressure FEedback
You don't have this in 1987
DPFE sensor will have 2 hoses from the EGR tube connected to it, it actually "reads" the pressure difference between the two hoses, the hose closer to the EGR valve will have lower pressure as the valve opens, the more it is open the bigger the difference.

What you have on a 1987 would be a plunger type EGR sensor, it measures MOVEMENT of the EGR's valve, so not Flow, as EGR valve and tube get carbon build up the flow is reduced even through EGR valve is open the same amount.
So the DPFE is a better system, but not one you have.
But yes they DO call what you have a DPFE sensor on some sites, but prior to the first DPFE sensor being used it was called just the EGR sensor

So 0 vacuum at the EGR Valve when engine is COLD or anytime it is idling

 

[rusty ol ranger]

I pulled the hose off that runs to the EGR sensor, the one that has exhaust (i assume) going thru it. Thats what had good flow at idle. So i must be backwards then and that hose has better flow with the EGR closed?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Have you resetthe computer and erasedthe memory? Do the KOEO test andwhen itstarts giving you codes stop the test. Then disconnect the battery neg for at least 1-2 an hour to reset the computer. Then run it for at least20 minutes at medium speeds and run the codes again and see what pops up.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

33 is a egr issue you willneed to make sure that code clears or it will keep going into limp mode?