New project 1992 Ranger Fireball

[RangerSVT]

Looks like you are heading down the right path and everything is everything out as it should.

I need to rethink my fan setup by moving the coolant temp sensor to the lower rad hose, once my thermostat opens then closes, the sensor sits in the hot coolant right after it keeping my fan on making my alternator work harder despite the coolant in the rad and engine being down enough to have it turn off.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

Do this (I do this trick to all my trucks), pull your thermostat out, and drill a 1/8" hole near the top of the thermostat. This will do two things. It will promote better temp readings when the thermostat is open or closed, but the main reason to do this is to prevent air pockets forming in the coolant system...

SVT

 

[gsp]

Do this (I do this trick to all my trucks), pull your thermostat out, and drill a 1/8" hole near the top of the thermostat. This will do two things. It will promote better temp readings when the thermostat is open or closed, but the main reason to do this is to prevent air pockets forming in the coolant system...

SVT

yes, I do the same

 

[dangerranger83]

Air pockets isn't the problem. It's the lack of the cooler coolant in the engine that's causing my issue. But your solution should work. I also though about a cooler tstat too, such as one that opens at 180 since my thermostatic temp switch is triggered to turn at 195 and off at 185. My current tstat is a 192 OE temp one.

I'm also considering adding water wetter to it to help with the transfer of heat better.

I'll give it a try dive I seen to have a very slow small leak between my neck housing and the intake that needs fixing anyways.

Sorry for the thread jack, but it is useful information given.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

 

[Elutheros]

Stuffing the 1356 in: I cut the offending pieces off with a cutoff wheel, removed the trans mount and let it sit on the crossmember and got my wife to move the jack for me as I wiggled the TC onto the trans. Then I lifted the trans/TC with a jack while I lowered the crossmember and put the trans mount back in position. Then we lifted the whole assembly carefully until I could get the passenger side crossmember bolts in place. I think I may have to look for a straight xmber or get one made. Won't know until I try the engine with the plate/4.0 mounts next week.

Clearance??

[/URL][/IMG]

Probably going to have to get a different crossmember:

[/URL][/IMG]

Got some hammering to do on top:

[/URL][/IMG]

Not sure how this is going to work out:

[/URL][/IMG]

That's the Ranger shifter in the M5ODR2 trans. Will still have to modify it to clear the dash:

[/URL][/IMG]

 

[dangerranger83]

You may have to pull everything to the driverside like I did plus make new bolt hole slots in your trans member like I had to, if you can pull stuff over.

Do remember, you don't want your pinion angles to be looking right at each other either, you want there to be angles in them. Also the engine and transmissions weren't centered in rangers from the factory.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

 

[RangerSVT]

Might want to consider getting a 1356 from a bronco. They had fixed yoke rear outputs instead of the slip yoke you have. Another option is to grab a 4406 as its a little narrower...

SVT

 

[dangerranger83]

Some f150s, at least the extended cab one I saw at my local JY, had a fixed yoke np208. Or if you can, an np205. They are compact, almost indestructible but are heavy pigs and have a poor low range but can be dual sticked.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

 

[Elutheros]

I'm still keeping my eyes open for another option like a 4406, etc. I just thought I would take a shot at making this fit since it was cheap.

 

[Elutheros]

Happy Fathers Day! My gift from the pick and pull:

[/URL][/IMG]

Going to need 3 bolts fixed that were sheared off by someone a long time ago:

[/URL][/IMG]


Someone please school me on this thing--do I need the adapter that was on the C-6? Will I have to cut a notch in my trans to mount this?

 

[dangerranger83]

Okay...I'm jealous.

No you shouldn't need an adaptor but you will need to make a mount for it though.

I'm seriously considering getting one before I finish making mine 4wd since my transmission has a granny low first gear that makes up for those having a poor low range.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

 

[RangerSVT]

Good find! Adapter, no, same spline and bolt pattern as the 1356, but you will need to notch the housing for the shiftrails. I've done this a couple times to the 4R70W trans, its easy, just use a sawzall...
As for the broke bolts, one easy way is to take a nut and put it on the broken bolt (thread it on as far as possible, or place it flush against the broken if no threads exposed) and using a MIG weld the nut to the broken bolt through the center of the nut. Take a socket or wrench and back it out no impacts)...

SVT

 

[dangerranger83]

Add pb buster as necessary too, good to let it soak in a few days.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

 

[Elutheros]

I was surprised that I didn't see this before--came off a 1978 F 150 Ranger. There is also a NP208 waiting to be picked in the same yard.

Thanks for the instruction--the bolts are sheared off flush with the metal, so I have to investigate how to handle that. Don't have a welder...yet.

 

[dangerranger83]

Not sure how much meat there is but you could probably drill and tap them the next size up.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

 

[RangerSVT]

A simple bolt extractor set should get the bolts out...

SVT