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New project 1992 Ranger Fireball


Rowdy Fitzgerald

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A little off subject but if you decide to twin stick it this is the thread I used as a reference to do mine.
I concur with SVT. Get a bolt extractor. If that doesn't work retap it to the next size bolt. I believe it will be a 7/16 coarse thread but I'm not positive.


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Elutheros

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These are the 3 bolts sheared off on the T/C. They were the easiest I've ever had to remove. One would not even allow me to use the drill without spinning, so I carefully backed it out with a small hammer and screwdriver. The other 2 broke loose as I drilled with the second size drill and then just spun out with the easy out. Whew, glad something was easy! I guess they sheared them off by over-tightening.

[/URL][/IMG]
 

Rowdy Fitzgerald

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You should go buy a lottery ticket ASAP!


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Elutheros

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Making it look a little better.
[/URL][/IMG]
 

dangerranger83

5.0 HO under the hood!!!
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I would change the seals while it's out.

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Elutheros

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Did anyone notice that the seal on the input shaft is installed backwards? I've screwed up some things in my life, so I'm not going to rail on whoever did it, but I do wonder how they confused which side goes in first when they had about 4 other seals to look at.
 

dangerranger83

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I didn't think it was possible to do such a thing. Guess you can't idiot proof everything.

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RangerSVT

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On the bolts to the Tcase, I personally would install studs to bolts, it'll help you align and install the tcase easier...

SVT
 

Rowdy Fitzgerald

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Ha ha ha I didn't zoom in to look over it. How would someone get that wrong? Lol


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Elutheros

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Okay, I'm confused--the photo below is from a rebuild tutorial for the NP 205. The seal on the input shaft is installed just like mine. There must be a good reason to do it that way. I humbly retract my statement about the seal being installed backwards.


[/URL][/IMG]
 
Last edited:

Fant

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Go with a double lip seal and leaking wont be an issue. I run no208 tcase. And installed new double lip seals with mine. Also ur tranny shifter location would be better location with a 97-03 top plate. Find a r2 out of a f150 with 4.2 v6 and pull the top plate and install on urs. It will put the shifter in near stock lacation. Even a 2wd shift plate will work on ur tranny. Most jy sell for 50 bicks with shifter. I had to cut bottom of shifter and reweld for better angle of shifter to fit my needs but it works great. And i have room for cup holders frm walmart. Lol.
 

Rowdy Fitzgerald

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There's supposed to be two seals stacked for the input. I'm assuming there was a issue with leaking there. Like Fant is saying a double lip seal would mitigate that .


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RangerSVT

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Running the seal backwards has a purpose, its not to keep the fluid from escaping, its to keep the trans fluid from entering the tcase, since the trans fluid is thinner (auto trans)...

SVT
 

Elutheros

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Ranger Svt--that makes sense. It was an automatic in the donor.
 

Elutheros

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I must have been absent the day people got schooled on mating the NP 205 to the M5ODR2. After I notched the trans for the T/C shifter I did a test fit and found the following problem. The NP205 bearing retainer sticks out 5/8 of an inch and the trans only has a 3/8 inch lip to mate to it. At first I thought I could just grind insets for the retainer bolts and then discovered that the bearing retainer is too long. Others have machined the bearing retainer and recessed the bolt heads--I don't have that kind of machinery. Anybody seen a better option like an adapter plate?
 

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