Bad Starter? Or something else???

[enginepaul]

Yes, it should be another link. The links are available at any parts store; I think “Help Products” has them. You splice it in the line to replace the old one; they usually have enough wire so that you won't have much trouble.

(A fusible link is just a short section of small guage wire that acts as a fuse when it gets overloaded; old school, but it works.)

 

[jsmith]

I asked three stores about the link and none of them had it. Still waiting on a ford dealer. Can I just use an in-line fuse? If so what amp rating should it be? It's the wire from the ignition lock in the cab. I was told a 30 amp but I'd like to know so I don't burn up my wires. Again...
It's not fun to run around the front side of the radiator heh.

 

[enginepaul]

You can take a chance and not use one, BUT if you get over-current, it will fry the wires. Maybe cut one out of a junk truck or car or just splice a smaller gauge wire into the line. ALSO: do a test to see if current is flowing without resistance; your link may be OK.

See:
http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/fusible-link.shtml
or
http://www.google.com/images?um=1&hl=en&safe=off&tbs=isch:1&q=ford+fusible+link&revid=1320719017&sa=X&ei=iZO8TMToGZGosQPfnY3lBw&ved=0CCQQ1QIoAQ&biw=1024&bih=583

Interesting: I just did a quick search and couldn't find a listing for a fusible link.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

The black fuseable link is 18 GA wire and the orange is 16 GA wire. +1 on going to the bone yard and cutting some out with the connectors on them. All you need is a small crescent wrench and a pair of dikes. If you find one the same year and still has vacuum solenoids,map and idle motor see if you can get them cheap it dont hurt to have spares you will probably be charged a minimum so grab what you can while your there. If you have to pass emissions that stuff is hard to find and can get real expensive.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I just noticed your about 40 mins away from me MV here.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Next year you can duraspark it and dump all that computer crap.

 

[jsmith]

Next year you can duraspark it and dump all that computer crap.

That's the plan!
I hate salvage yards. Most the salvage yards here are gone. Just a couple left and they overcharge

 

[dangerranger83]

You don't have to go to the j/y to get a duraspark setup, got all my electronics new. You can get your carb. off the internet

 

[jsmith]

The wire (Ford part D3AZ14526T) is discontinued and unable to find.

All it really consists of is a 16 AWG wire with a section of 20 ga. spliced inbetween it.
Think I could just solder in some 20 and finish it off with 16 and wrap it in tape? Seems like it'd work but I've replaced this particular wire twice now and don't want to again.

 

[enginepaul]

All it really consists of is a 16 AWG wire with a section of 20 ga. spliced inbetween it.
Think I could just solder in some 20 and finish it off with 16 and wrap it in tape?

Yes it should work. I'd crimp instead of solder, but you have the right idea. Just remember that the #20 will get warm to hot when in service.

 

[jsmith]

Ok well now I'm at another point where I'm stumped. I've checked all the wiring from the ignition switch, starter, etc. etc. back to the solenoid and it's all hooked up correctly and in good shape.

Problem is when I turn the key I still get nothing. No dash lights. Headlights. Buzz.
So I checked the grounds. All where they should be. Comes straight off the batt right to the frame in two spots. As far as I know the starter grounds through the housing and the transmission itself correct?

A guy at work said he had the same issue with his '81 F250. Said it was his voltage regulator.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Maybe your fuse block has some corrosion get up there with a VOM and check for power and look for burnt corroded connections, wires. Can you get it to turn over when you take a screwdriver and short across the battery terminal and the small start terminal on the starter solenoid.

 

[jsmith]

Maybe your fuse block has some corrosion get up there with a VOM and check for power and look for burnt corroded connections, wires. Can you get it to turn over when you take a screwdriver and short across the battery terminal and the small start terminal on the starter solenoid.

I'll check the fuses after work today.
I did try to short the starter solenoid by bridging the posts with a wrench. No luck.

 

[Hotrodlincoln]

Advance carries fusible links in the "Help" section.
Napa should have some too.
Fusible links are easy to check though. Grab the wire at both ends and tug. It should feel solid. If it stretches and/or breaks, it was bad.

Are you sure you hooked the power cable to the right post on the starter? I'm not sure about these, but I've seen a few starters that have more than one large post for some reason or other.
Also, do you have a good ground from the engine to the frame?

 

[jsmith]

Advance carries fusible links in the "Help" section.
Napa should have some too.
Fusible links are easy to check though. Grab the wire at both ends and tug. It should feel solid. If it stretches and/or breaks, it was bad.

Are you sure you hooked the power cable to the right post on the starter? I'm not sure about these, but I've seen a few starters that have more than one large post for some reason or other.
Also, do you have a good ground from the engine to the frame?

The fusible link that burned up is now replaced, correctly this time so it won't burn up again.
My solenoid has the + battery terminal and both fusible links attached to the positive and the power to the starter out through the other post. Should be correct.
The ground I see coming from the battery is grounded solidly. Starter grounds through the trans I think. So that leads me to think an ignition switch wire is loose or there's a ground I'm missing.